South Ridge Original Route

From the Douglas névé beneath Mt Brunner, begin climbing up the couloir that leads to the gap between Brunner and Sefton. About halfway up the couloir, turn left and traverse a snow shelf between large rock cliffs. A pitch of rock may be required to gain the bottom of the shelf in late summer. At the top of the shelf, one or two pitches of rock lead to an upper snowfield, which is followed to a prominent snow peak (Pt 3048m). Descend from the peak to a col below a rock buttress, which is avoided by traversing snow slopes on the west then climbing back up to reach the col between the two summits of Sefton.