Valley Road Crag

Type

Altitude

100m

Part of

Limestone crag with routes up to 12 meters with routes for all ages and abilities.
Majority of routs have double bolt anchors at the top

External links

/nz/ni/northland/waipu-caves-farm-park

Walktime

10 minutes

Aspect

East

Lat/lon

-35.934805555556,174.36525, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

AX30 231 222

Approach

All climbers must register at the office of Waipu Caves Farm Park at 567 Waipu Caves Road and pay a small fee which cover maintenance including periodic water-blasting. From the office all 3 crags are with 300m to 500m. There is a camp ground if you wish to stay. Rules on site include, fees must be paid before climbing, all climbers and belayers must wear a helmet, No free climbing or climbing without ropes, No adding/modifying/changing bolts or hangers. You are always responsible for your own safety. FYI, there are sometimes schools booked to climb and they have first rights to access, however it is unlikely all 3 crags would be booked. You will be told on arrival which crags are available.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Jade's Challenge, 22	22	8m	4	0
P1 22 8m 4 Follow the line of bolts up the steep face on Slopers and small holds to the last bolt on the roof. mantel the roof and walk off the top or rap off the Totara tree
	The Inner Pickle, 14	14	8m		0
P1 14 8m Climb the chimney direct to the anchor. Keep near the opening, too deep and you will be the inner pickle
	Doritos, 16	16	8m	2	0
P1 16 8m 2 Crux start for shorter people. Climb the face direct to a solid stance at first bolt, then through mild terrain past second bolt to the anchor
	Family Pack, 14	14	8m	2	0
P1 14 8m 2 Climb the face just to the right of the arete following the line of bolts or gain the arete after the first bolt for an easier assent
	No Refund, 17	17	10m		0
P1 17 10m Multiple options, Climb straight up the off width crack before tending right towards the arete near the top to gain the anchors or left at the top of the crack for a more exciting finish. Alternatively, climb the chimney to gain the large ledge then step across the gap to finish as above
	Its Complicated, 20	20	6m		0
P1 20 6m From the name tag, climb the face direct to the ledge then up easy ground to the anchor. For a significantly easier climb, start from the boulder to gain the crack, then layback up to the ledge.
	Kane's Excitement , 18	18	12m	4	0
P1 18 12m 4 Climb into the diagonal off width, then slide up until hand jams can be reached behind the protruding rock to reach the ledged or continue up the diagonal. From the ledge climb direct to the anchor
	Long Reach, 20	20	12m		0
P1 20 12m From the large opening at the base, climb up tending left into the shallow finger crack and onto the right side of the small ledge (crux). Then tend slightly right over the lip before heading direct to the anchors through the small roof
	Go Zoe, 19	19	11m	3	0
P1 19 11m 3 Find the hidden pocket below the first bolt. At the small roof, tend either left or right and climb through.
	Corynocarpus, 19	19	10m	3	0
P1 19 10m 3 Climb the face tending right of the first two bolts. Currently no anchor bolts but is an easy scramble off with bolted protection or move right to the anchor of "Go Zoe"
	Watch My Bum, 21	21	6m		0
P1 21 6m Climb the slightly overhung face using both aretes. Good holds to finish. Currently no anchor bolts. Use the anchor bolts for "Go Zoe" and "Jug Lug" or the access bolt to set up a suitable anchor.
	Hobbit Hole, 14	14	0m	6	0
P1 14 6 Climb the small chimney to the roof
	Jug Lug, 8	8	4m		0
P1 8 4m A short juggy route great for kids or someone learning the basics of cleaning anchors
	Foxy Loxy, 10	10	5m		0
P1 10 5m A good step up from "Jug Lug" with good but spaced out holds provoking more thought and movement. another good sport for learning to clean an anchor
	Connor Stewart, 12	12	4m		0
P1 12 4m Climb the short chimney with rests along the way. for a more challenging climb, layback the arete all the way to the bolts and dont touch the opposite wall (15)
	Astelia Rise, 14	14	5m		0
P1 14 5m A cruxy start under the bolder. Mantle the bolder then direct to the anchor
	Tahi's First, 13	13	6m		0
P1 13 6m Climb the chimney and wedged boulders to reach the top face with solid holds
	Middle Earth, 16	16	6m		0
P1 16 6m A slightly overhung cruxy start to a slabby finish tending left towards the arete
	Smash 'n' Grab, 19	19	5m		0
P1 19 5m Climb the overhung face tending right around the arete

Comments

UUID

9e507e23-9772-4f8b-a1fc-861449dcb54c