Natural pro requiredGiant left-facing corner crack; would be a completely classic trad route except it is SHARP! The second pitch is shorter but much smoother. Edges will dull with traffic. For now, recommend sturdy crack/tape gloves, and doing in 3 pitches with your rope doubled, using halfrope technique - there is danger of cutting your rope on sharp prickles/edges (or lug thicker half ropes up there).
Very visible from the track from upvalley; impossible to see from downvalley, but it's up and right of a huge slanting cave at the base of the cliffs.
Gear: SR to #4(optional), doubles finger-hands size gear. Second 3 and the 4 may be useful, especially if not highly confident at the grade.
Walk off in light scrub/scree gully a few hundred meters North (climbers R), and sidle back along the base of the cliffs.
- P1
- 20
- 47m
- Trad
Move up and right past pockets (purple totem) to gain the corner (no crack yet, just pockets), then up a slab leading to steep crux (flaring crack/slot). Place gear - good on horns then small wire and bad cam - then up crack (or in from left, vertical face climbing on good holds) and struggle through a few bad holds to good holds just past where angle eases. Slab fall potential, gear questionable. Would be worth adding 1-3 bolts - on the bulge near start, and especially at the crux. Then up corner crack above (sharp calcite) through several steps. The steepest one can be avoided by moving left (feet on loose blocks) then back up and right in a lower angle crack (big block, hollow at bottom, don't place gear?) to rejoin main corner. Cool move on big handhold over steep top and belay
- P2
- 15
- 25m
- Trad
Awesome gear corner - not sharp - then avoid big roof at top by moving out right and up the vertical right wall on perfect face holds and pockets. Belay above (cracks on low angle marble).
