Cassino Pk | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2450m

Part of

Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna resisted attempts to climb them over many years.

Caption

Panorama and the Grey-Maud Lake, December 2009

Rights credit

Danilo Hegg/Southern Alps Photography

Lat/lon

-43.451892,170.460502, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX16 945 859

Accessed from

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
8.21	8.21East Face, III,3+	III,3+	0m	0
Climb from the Grey névé above the icefall to the hanging glacier, and then follow steep snow and rock to the Main Divide onto the low summit. Traverse under rock pinnacles between the summits and up the right-hand face to the summit proper. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3+
	From the West, 2+	2+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+ From the lower Gino Watkins Glacier access the West Ridge. Up to the 2200-metre contour this ridge has been used as access by climbing parties camping on the Nansen Glacier. From the upper Nansen névé, climb the ridge to the summit.
	North Ridge (Main Divide), 2+	2+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+ Climbed from the Nansen névé, approaching the peak from the north, mostly up the face. On the first ascent a good snow lead took the party to the Main Divide North Ridge about 150 metres below the summit. Several pitches of mixed climbing led to the top. Descent via a snowface and a couple of snow gullies back to the Nansen.

Comments

This place appears in

Attribution

ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
CW Alps 2009 (Geoff Spearpoint, Yvonne Cook, CMC)

UUID

ce34fe91-b56e-4e95-ba2a-1b2f60f0af4c