Originally climbed on 9 December 1935 by D O W Hall and W G Mace via the north-east (Divide) ridge from the upper Sustins Glacier. Most of the ridge between Mt Huss and Pt 2543 metres remains untraversed. Pt 2543 metres, near Moffat, is unclimbed.
Mts Huss and Moffat above the Classen valley, February 2015
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| 8.13 | 8.13South East Face, III,3 | III,3 | 0m | ||||
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From the Classen Glacier, climb a shingle rib west of the Easter Glacier to the foot of a large wall. Climb a rock buttress west of a prominent snow couloir to gain the upper Sustins Glacier. From the head of the glacier, ascend snow and ice slopes to gain the Main Divide east of the peak, as close to the summit as possible.
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| 8.12 | 8.12South West Ridge (Main Divide), III,4 | III,4 | 0m | ||||
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A steep rock climb. From the Classen Glacier, climb a shingle rib west of the Easter Glacier to the foot of a large wall. Climb a rock buttress west of a prominent snow couloir to gain the upper Sustins Glacier and the ridge. The ridge has three steps. The first can be turned on the left and the second on the right, with an exposed traverse on rock dropping straight to the glacier below. The third step involves straightforward scrambling.
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| West Ridge, 2+ | 2+ | 0m | |||||
From Lake Barrowman head up the true left of the stream draining the small glacier under Mt Huss. From the small glacier, two snow guts lead up to the range between Dog Kennel Peak and Mt Huss. The ridge is of the usual broken sort, but rock on Mt Huss proper is rough and firm, offering four simple but exposed pitches. A mixed route with good rock. |
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| West Face, 4 | 4 | 600m | |||||
Climbed from a camp in the Lake Barrowman Valley. ‘Reminiscent of the West Face of Haidinger, only harder and more rock’. A difficult route – the grade is approximate. |
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Images
Canterbury Westland Alps 2009 (Yvonne Cook, Geoff Spearpoint, CMC)