Central Buttress

Type

Part of

Central Buttress forms the impressive corner of the west and south faces of Pt 2155m and is bisected by the Terrace.
Descent from the top of the buttress is best from the bolt anchors at the top of South of the Border, on a small block at the west end of the angled terrace (two abseils to the Terrace).
From the Terrace it’s two abseils down the line of El Niño.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Once Were Wasters, 21	21	0m	5	3
P1 18 Trad Start near the lowest point of the buttress, below the roof on a left-slanting slab. Bolt belay. P2 21 5 Trad A hyperclassic pitch with a wild layback flake. Move right and up the corner and further right on face holds to the thin crack line. Bolt belay.
	South of the Border, 21	21	0m	5	2.01
Stunning and sustained from start to finish although occasionally on friable rock. P1 21 1 Trad Bolt belay. P2 20 3 Trad Bolt belay. P3 20 5 Trad Continue to the big ledge.
	Feathered Friends, 21	21	0m	5	1.02
P1 21 3 Trad Pull through the overlap and onto the wall. Some fine flaky climbing. Bolt belay. P2 20 2 Trad Steep and juggy. Bolt belay. P3 20 5 Trad More steep ground to a single bolt belay on the big ledge.
	Swing In, 24	24	0m	3	0
P1 24 3 Trad From the top of Once Were Wasters on the Terrace, abseil to a bolt belay on the lip of the roof. Angle left then up past three bolts.
	Slab It to Me, 19	19	0m		0
P1 19 Trad From the top of Once Were Wasters on the Terrace, abseil to a bolt belay above the roof and follow a line of flakes back up to the ledge. The thin crack up to the large roof was aided by Tony Pine and Murray Judge in 1998, later free climbed at grade 24 by Steve Monks, January 1999.
	Rock Wren, 24	24	0m	7	0
P1 24 7 Trad Climb the wall below the big roof to join the central arête.
	El Niño, 16	16	245m	8	0
The Central Buttress arête. Too broken to warrant a star. P1 16 20m 4 Trad Climb to a bolt belay. P2 14 20m Trad Continue to the next bolt belay. P3 15 40m Trad A long pitch to the Terrace. P4 16 30m 8 Trad Start left of the arête past a detached (but solid) flake, then up the arête. Bolt count estimate only. Trad anchor. P5 15 15m Trad Through an alcove to slabs and a bolt belay. P6 15 40m Trad Follow the hand crack to a terrace. Trad anchor. P7 12 40m Trad Start left up the arête, up two short walls, then trend right to a bolt belay level with the overhang. P8 10 40m Trad Up and left to the arête and to an angled terrace and a single glue-in bolt.
	Central Buttress, 17	17	0m	8	0
A good introduction to Twin Stream multi-pitch climbing and only two minutes from camp. P1 17 8 Trad Climb the slab to the alcove and through the overlap to a sloping ledge. P2 16 Trad The wide crack narrows to a pleasant hand crack through the bulge to the Terrace. Bolt belay. P3 12 3 Trad Climb the short left-facing corner crack, then traverse out right along a ledge to a bolt belay. P4 15 Trad Begin up the corner.
	Marigold, 16	16	0m		0
P1 16 Trad Start off the Terrace. The stepped line of flakes right of Central Buttress.
	Sutherland, 19	19	50m		0
P1 19 50m Trad A trad line on the smooth slab right of the Central Buttress arête. Start off the grassy ledge, reached by scrambling around the corner form the start of Central Buttress.
	Jumbo Burger, 18	18	50m	7	1.02
P1 18 50m 7 Trad Great slab climbing on fantastic rock. Follow bolts and occasional cam placements to the grassy ledge. Traverse right 5m to a bolt belay.
	Dial a Pizza, 21	21	50m	7	0
P1 21 50m 7 Trad On the right-most side of the slab, slant right, then left, to the bolt belay on the grassy ledge.
	Southern Arête, 17	17	0m		0
The arête on the far right end of Central Buttress. From the campsite, take the scree up right then scramble back left onto the prow. A short pitch then a 50m pitch gain the base of the arête, then 3 pitches to the top. P1 17 Trad

Comments

This place appears in

Ōhau Landsborough Alps: a guide for mountaineers, 2021

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UUID

c2d39e87-3273-42c1-b086-4aff005f6b58