Matakitaki Route

From the East Matakitaki Hut, follow a blazed track through bush and subalpine scrub, then head south into a large basin. Climb a gully west of the peak (best if snow-covered; exposed rock in summer) to the narrow ridge south of the peak, and scramble to the summit. Alternatively, climb to the North East ridge; a 25m rock step may require a rope. From here there is a spectacular view down the steep 1200m east face into Glacier Gully and the Waiau Valley.