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Glacier Gully Routes

Type
Face
Part of
Aspect
East

Tributry of Waiau River

Approach

The stream opens out into a tussock and scree basin. Above the cirque wall is a wide shelf and glacier remnant on the eastern faces of Una and Duessa. Climb a scrubby spur (or the gully on its left) onto the southern end of the shelf. Alternatively, in winter, climb snow gullies and slopes at the head of Glacier Gully onto the northern end of the shelf. From the shelf, there are several options:

Image

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Option 1, 3 3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3

Climb a couloir onto a col just south-east of Duessa Peak, and traverse this peak onto the south ridge.


2 2Option 2, 3 3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3

Climb directly up the steep south-east face.


3 3Option 3, 3 3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3

From the northern end of the shelf, gain a broad spur (steep at the bottom) which leads north-west and onto the north-east summit ridge. A 25m step on this final ridge may require a rope.


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Comments
jeanjeane

Pleasant hike in the summer too, covering all bases: car camping, river walking, rock scramble, scree sliding, cramponing and sunbathing - Feb 2013 up Option 1 route.

Sun, 17/03/2013 - 17:26 Permalink
Attribution
Ben Winnubst
UUID
 
a72b8689-aff6-4dd7-ab7a-386f6ffcee24