OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Natural pro requiredSeries of stepped slabs to the right of Sound of the Gong. There are three solid placements on this route, but it is possible to use a couple of the bolts to the left with a long sling for extension. The rest of the gear requires good placement skills (not recommended for beginners). Climb up through two bulges before heading up the final corner to the anchor. The crux is a delicate commit to a foothold at the first bulge.