OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Better than it sounds. Access from Floating Pillar along the base of the cliff. One double bolt anchor is shared for the right three climbs. It is possible to get to the anchor by scrambling up the south side of the buttress.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| TMS | TMSThe Missing Scale, 15 | 15 | 22m | 8 |
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Fun and engaging slab climbing.
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| Drums in the deep, 15 | 15 | 20m | 7 |
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Start as for The missing scale then head left a couple of meters to the line of bolts. The bottom two bolts need extensive extension. The locations are not ideal but were dictated by the rock quality. Double rings at the top.
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| SOTG | SOTGThe Sound Of The Gong, 15 | 15 | 22m | 7 |
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Corner to the right of The Missing Scale. Shares the same last bolt with The Missing Scale
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| Moment of Inertia, 15 | 15 | 22m |  |
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Series of stepped slabs to the right of Sound of the Gong. There are three solid placements on this route, but it is possible to use a couple of the bolts to the left with a long sling for extension. The rest of the gear requires good placement skills (not recommended for beginners). Climb up through two bulges before heading up the final corner to the anchor. The crux is a delicate commit to a foothold at the first bulge.
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