James Stirling Wall

Type

Sector

Part of

Whanganui Bay

Above the fixed-rope scramble on the access track is a large ledge with several classic trad and sport lines.

Rights credit

Tom Hoyle/NZAC

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Scaling Grips, 23	23	12m	1	0
P1 23 12m 1 Trad The arete requires stacked nuts and may require a retro-bolt.
19	19James Stirling Direct, 17	17	18m		2.01
P1 17 18m Trad Climb the finger crack and continue into the wider hand crack, finishing to the left of the block. Good gear is available, especially after the initial crack.
20	20When I Grow Up I Want To Be A Guru, 23	23	18m	4	1.02
P1 23 18m 4 Trad Rob grew up to be a surfing guru. Start up the same finger crack using gear for protection, but head straight up the arête past four bolts and finish to the right of the blocks (more gear at top).
21	21Zarathustra, 22	22	18m		1.02
P1 22 18m Trad ‘You have evolved from worm to man, but much within you is still worm. Once you were apes, yet even now man is more of an ape than any of the apes.’ Thus Spake Zarathustra by Freddie Nietzsche. Start up the same finger crack (you must have it dialled by now) then up slab and corner to the right of Guru. Small wires for protection.
	Zarathustra Direct Start, 23	23	18m	1	0
P1 23 18m 1 Trad Climb direct to the upper corner up the short wall with one high bolt.
22	22The Hanged Man, 22	22	20m	3	2.01
P1 22 20m 3 Trad Best done without a bag on your head. Head up the corner to the left of the On Patrol arête and then slightly left onto the slab. Finish up the corner with gear in the crack.
23	23On Patrol In The Ruins Of Your Body, 23	23	20m	8	3
P1 23 20m 8 Despite its chequered history (see The Climber magazine issue 66), this route has all the hallmarks of a classic. Long and varied with brilliant moves and a crux where it hurts.
24	24Grotesque, 26	26	15m	5	2.01
P1 26 15m 5 Climbs the thin seam and wall to finish at the tree. Of the 1988 film starring Linda Blair, one reviewer wrote: ‘Really good and really bad at the same time.’ The same might be said for this climb. Looks great but you be the judge of the adjectival accuracy of the title.
25	25Champagne, 20	20	22m		1.02
A bit of a pickle. Originally climbed as three pitches but a few long slings can string it together in one. From the top of P1 an alternative finish (Sinister Variation (21), Rick McGregor, August 1980) traverses left across Grotesque and up the corner system to the top of Hanged Man. P1 18 10m Trad Climb the ramp and corner to the ledge with tree and bolted belay. P2 20 5m Trad Up short corner to another ledge and tree belay. P3 17 7m Trad Climb the groove and crack on left or the wider crack on the right.
26	26Rough Red Coalition, 23	23	12m	5	0
P1 23 12m 5 Start up short wall past bolts to the ledge at base of Champagne corner, then step right onto the face and climb drifting through bulge to finish at ledge.

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