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Black Scorpion Corner

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 25 May 2026, by JP.

The 2026 climbing season at Whanganui Bay starts on Saturday 30 May and ends on Monday 30 November. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Type
Sector
Part of
Whanganui Bay

The shady platform is a launching pad for several trad gems and some bolted lines.

Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6 6Jungle Judy, 19 19 14m 3
1.02
  • P1
  • 19
  • 14m
  • 3

An awkward start gives way to pleasant pocket moves. Scramble over the lip and head up and right to the anchor.
7 7Lepton Man, 24 24 20m
1.02
  • P1
  • 24
  • 12m
  • Trad

Excellent climbing on the thin crack is made somewhat inaccessible by poor gear. Many opt to top-rope from the Jungle Judy anchor.

  • P2
  • 22
  • 8m
  • Trad

The mossy crack above the Jungle Judy anchor. Short but sharp.
8 8Black Scorpion, 24 24 15m
3
  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • Trad

The stunning right-angle corner with crack offers brilliant climbing, although the gear requires some thought and has been known to pull. There is little if any prior to the obvious pod, with small cams and medium wires being useful in the crack after this point.
9 9Pulse Converter, 21 21 15m
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • Trad

This finger and hand crack offers good options for gear. Dynoing for the tree at the top is recommended for sport climbers. Anchor as for Black Scorpion.
10 10Separation Anxiety, 21 21 10m 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 10m
  • 2
  • Trad

Womble tremulously past the shipwreck flake (possible cam placement) to the first bolt, then abandon caution and crank through the spaced pockets.
11 11Blow Up, 25 25 10m 4
0
  • P1
  • 25
  • 10m
  • 4

A technical and sustained prospect with a distinct lack of holds. Recommended if you are in the mood for mincing down.
12 12Distortion, 27 27 12m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 27
  • 12m
  • 5

The bulging overhang is climbed on a collection of tendon-distorting two finger pockets.
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