Wet Dreams Wall

Type

Sector

Part of

Whanganui Bay

A short wall in the trees beyond the main Whekenui walls.

Rights credit

Tom Hoyle/NZAC

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Romeo Void, V2	V2	8m		0
P1 Hueco V2 8m The minimalist line of pocks to the left of the thin crack makes for a great boulder problem.
2	2Silent Freeway, 24	24	8m		0
P1 24 8m Trad A thin crack provides a difficult challenge.
3	3A Day in the Life of Jim Collins, 22	22	8m		1.02
P1 22 8m Trad The first of many routes at the Bay referencing the fate of the pilot of Flight TE901 and his tragic entanglement with Mt Erebus. Presumably when legitimate rock star John Allen soloed the first ascent of this route there was little chance of him hitting the ground with the same impact.
4	4Wet Dreams, 19	19	8m		1.02
P1 19 8m Trad This finger crack is harder than it looks but still a considerably easier proposition than Silent Freeway. The gear is reasonable and provides a good trad lead at the grade.
5	5Blind Paratroopers, 16	16	8m	3	0
P1 16 8m 3 A balancey proposition, but one of the easiest bolted routes at the Bay. Presumably the title is a reference to the only folk who could fail to notice the chipped hold.
	Last Chance, 22	22	7m		0
P1 22 7m Trad Above and beyond Wet Dreams. Wobble onto the pedestal and climb the thin crack.
	Entertainment, 20	20	8m		1.02
P1 20 8m Trad Across the gully from Last Chance is this acute-angled corner. The name says it all.
	Everdance, 21	21	8m		1.02
P1 21 8m Trad Climb the wall on pockets, but use the thin crack for pro.
	General Belgrano Rules the Seas, V2	V2	5m		0
P1 Hueco V2 5m A boulder problem on the short wall opposite Entertainment.
	Ponga Arete, 24	24	7m		0
Above the Wet Dreams wall is an arete with a ponga tree behind it. Solo the Arete. The ponga can be used as 'natural protection' by leaning back onto it if you get scared (but not on a free ascent of course!) P1 24 7m Trad

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