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Mid-Life Wall

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 25 May 2026, by JP.

The 2026 climbing season at Whanganui Bay starts on Saturday 30 May and ends on Monday 30 November. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Type
Sector
Part of
Aspect
North
Approach

Follow the access track to the Plateau and then walk left along the base of the cliffs and up the short fixed rope.

Walktime
15 min
Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Balfourspace, 21 21 27m 10
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 27m
  • 10

At the far left end of the crag, somewhat on its own. Proceed through the difficult first section, starting either from the groove on the left or slab to the right. Then charge up past ledges to slab and final headwall.


2 2Slave to the Rhythm, 21 21 20m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 6

At the far left end of the wall. Initially hard moves up the face, then left over the bulge and then head right.


 Dancing Machine, 24 24 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 6

Float up the blank devious corner, then groove your way to the anchor in the sunshine.


3 321 Classic Dance Tunes, 23 23 15m 9
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 9

Move up the slab with difficulty and then head left at steeper ground before heading back right and finishing up the wall.


4 4Jive Junky, 24 24 15m 8
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 8

Start up the right-slanting groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab and continue up to the corner and face, drifting left onto the face at the top.


5 5Mid-Life Crisis, 22 22 20m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 8

Start up the right-slanting groove to the right of the black streaked slab (as for previous route) but continue up the groove to the right. Excellent climbing with a wide variety of moves and holds.


 Get Over It, 23 23 0m 3
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 3

An alternate start to Mid-Life Crisis or Hands Solo, up the unenticing ‘V’ slot and small overhang. The crisis is real.


6 6Hands Solo, 22 22 32m 11
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 32m
  • 11

Best climbed as one very long pitch but take some long draws and watch your rope length on the descent. Start up slabby ground at the right end of the wall, tending right to a ledge and belay station (19, 12m, 3B). Now crank through the bulge (crux) to gain another ledge. Tackle another bulge and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff.


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