Up De Do Da Buttress

Start up the wall via sloping ledges and awkward moves and then shoot the gap through the encroaching vegetation. Move up through easy ground to groove and then up this to the headwall.

You may need to bush bash to get on this route. Start at the left end of the sweeping wall, charge up the jugs trending right and on to the slab where resistance ends. Has not been rebolted or cleaned since ‘86, treat bolts with caution.

From ramp (place a wire before the high first bolt) go around roof to the left and then back right into crack, placing gear here. Finish up wall past bolts to anchor rings. Excellent varied climbing.

Climbs the prominent pale streak. Canter up the shallow corner and then up the overhang on unbelievable jugs. Eventually you must go right onto the sheer headwall where the crux awaits. Bolts are well spaced but where you need them. A previous guidebook description for this route used the term ‘horrendously overhanging country’, how the times have changed.

Head straight up the overhanging wall shouting ‘Ali! Bumaye!’ as you go.

Climb the short wall right of When We Were Kings to a ledge,with quite a cruxy move prior to the first bolt. Head up right of the arête past 3 more well-spaced bolts, with a good wire placement just before the top.

A long and varied route with just enough actual climbing to make the whole thing worth the effort.

About 50m up the track past The Oxidator. Step onto the slab, move left and continue up.