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Upper Mangakara

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 4 November 2024, by jonathan.

Whanganui Bay is open to climbers until 1 December 2024. You must register – details are below. 

Type
Part of

The grandeur of the rock features here is matched by the mighty podocarp trees growing alongside.

Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC
Access

Locate the rough track that cuts off from the Bay access road about 120m downhill from the Lobotomy Buttress. This track broadly follows the old access road up the gorge until, after about 10 minutes, it passes under the Pacifica Wall. From there it heads up the hill.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Kraftwerk project 10m
0

  • P1
  • 10m

About 50m uphill of The New Funk and up the hill slightly is this open project. The chunky arete seems climbable. Just. Equipped by Kristen Foley.


15 15Gotterdammerung, 25 25 20m
3

  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • Trad

A route with all the pomp and grandeur of a Wagner opera. This unmissable splitter crack is one of the best lines at the Bay and worth a go if you are prepared to put in a little effort. Yes, the first half dozen holds are chipped, and wet, but it remains a classic line.


16 16Twilight of the Gods, 31 31 25m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 31
  • 25m
  • 7
  • Trad

A modern composition, with an immaculate sequence. Start up Gotterdammerung until you reach a perfect finger-jug on the right wall. From here, big moves right lead to the obvious overlapping seam. The seam will lead you all the way to the top of the wall, with lots of long moves and sneaky footwork.


 Godspeed You! Black Emperor, 30 30 20m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 30
  • 20m
  • 6

Climbs the blunt arete to the right of Twilight. A tricky boulder at the starts leads to sequential pocket pulling and a reasonable rest in the peapod feature. Above that, technical arete climbing leads to a slab crux just below the chains.


 Mellowpuff, 23 23 21m
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 21m
  • Trad

The eye-catching corner crack with some soft rock. Finish at the anchor on Favourite Worst Nightmare. Needs a good clean.


 Favourite Worst Nightmare, 26 26 20m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 6

Climbs the wall immediately right of Mellowpuff, with excellent moves on immaculate stone down low followed by some airy slab climbing to finish.


 Brother Asia, 24 24 28m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 24
  • 28m
  • 6
  • Trad

Tricky and committing moves down low (take small wires) lead into a large pea-pod with 3 bolts. Stem up the pod and climb the thin face crack above to the old anchor (more small wires and a cam or two). After admiring the old anchor, continue up the wall above on pockets and knobs, past 3 more bolts. A full value pitch with a little bit of everything. Extension added in 2024.


17 17Street Legal, 23 23 21m
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • 21m
  • Trad

Climbs the arching corner and under the large roof. There is a bolt belay to the right of the lower section of roof.


18 18Saved, 24 24 18m
3

  • P1
  • 24
  • 18m
  • Trad

Straight up the alluring thin crack to the right. Has a fixed peg at the crux, which should be treated with extreme caution as it is unlikely John Allen was expecting it to still be holding falls 40+ years later. Shares anchor with Street Legal.


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