Akeake Wall

Climbs through an obvious notch about 8 metres up. Start near the large akeake tree and climb a straightforward section of wall with some good gear placements, then up through the notch and corner above, stepping left on to the prow. Above a short grass section pick up the rock again and follow easy cracks and corners to the top, with a sling anchor around a large tree.

Start as for Wood Is Good with a sling runner on a high branch and move right to the right-facing corner. Place gear and step across; climb the small pillar to a rest. Then smear up the deceptively tricky low-angle corner to the top. Either step across low to the anchor for WIG (hidden in the grass), or continue up and right to finish as for Serenity.

Start on the left side of the pittosporum tree and muscle up against the tree to gain a stance on the wall. Place gear (with some blind placements) and climb the thin crack with awkward moves but consistently good gear. Double ring anchor slightly right.

The central crack between the two corners. Start on the right side of the tree with a big two-hand jug, and leg-wrap the tree to gain a stable position on the wall. Climb the crack past a jammed block / jug to an easy finish up the corner to the anchors.

Start on the right side of the tree with a big two-hand jug, and leg-wrap the tree to gain a stable position on the wall. Sling a branch of the tree, move up, and sling a higher branch. A couple of tricky gain a rest position with two good placements for small cams. Move through to the corner and place microwires in the right crack. Bridge up and step right to the arête, then step left to the anchor.

Poor Bonanza was shot to pieces by 20 federal marshals due to a misunderstanding. Make sure you know what you're embarking upon. Start as for Wood Is Good with a sling runner on a high branch and move carefully right to the right-facing corner. Place gear and step across; climb the small pillar to a rest. Then smear up the deceptively tricky low-angle corner to the top. Either step across low to the anchor for WIG (hidden in the grass), or continue up and right to finish as for Serenity.

A right-facing corner and double crack with an undercut base. Start to the right and climb across the tree and onto the rock below the right-hand crack. Place microwires and move left using hidden holds and edges (crux). Climb the small semi-detached pillar and move to the right crack and up to join the finish of Serenity, past the pruned hebe on its right and onto the upper wall with one bolt.

"How's the serenity?" A line in the middle of the wall marked out by a prominent arching pillar halfway up. Some delicate moves to gain the crack and gear (small cams); then climb the crack to a ledge below the pillar. Surmount the pillar and climb past the right side of a hebe to gain the headwall, then up past a bolt to an anchor station.

That's what you need. Start at the same point but balance up carefully to a ledge on the right. Climb the narrowing pillar, bridging to the crack on the left (protection) At the top of the pillar jam though the roof (good jam just out of reach), and continue up the easier crack above to an anchor slightly right, just below the grass.

Overhanging left-facing corner with a crack on the right wall. Boulder up the crumbling lower wall and jam up the crack with good gear to the big ledge. Then easily up the wide crack above and to the anchor of New Broom.

Start off the horizontal akeake tree and balance up on sloping holds to gain the crack and micro-wires. Place better gear from a jam on the left and manoeuvre up the crack to finally reach an easier section.