OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Natural pro requiredElusive as well as deceitful. Originally the top crack was climbed by John Madgwick, but it is unclear how he accessed it. The modern version starts in The Gully beside the chimney and follows the rib past several bolts past a slot where a large cam is required (Camalot 3 / Friend 4 / Dragon 5) before smearing up the rib. (Don't be tempted leftward by the decoy bolts leading to the col, which are to protect that route). Join the ridge at the ledge and then climb the short crack on gear, with some larger sizes being useful though not essential.