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Boanerges

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2254m
Part of
Elcho–Huxley Mountains

Boanerges was named by Grave, Ombler, Watson and Pinder, who completed the first ascent of the mountain. The Ford car in which they traveled was called Boanerges, which in the Old Testament was ‘a son of thunder’.

Lat/lon
-43.98365358,169.76570211, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BY14 406 249
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 West Ridge, 2 2 0m
0

From near the Huxley Forks Hut gain height through the forest and subalpine
vegetation and follow the steep slopes to the summit. Descent for the first
party was via the south east ridge.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2
 44 South, 3 3 0m
0

This late summer route ascends the steep bluffs immediately beneath the Blair
Glacier. Climb right of centre up the bluffs, cross the short moraine to
reach the glacier and crampon to the summit. Best tackled when the danger of
avalanches has disappeared, and the bluffs are dry.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3
 South East Ridge, 2 2 0m
0

From the Huxley bridge gain height through the beech forest, then follow the
narrow ridge up the tussock slopes to the peak.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2
 The Eclipse Traverse, IV,3 IV,3 0m
2.01

This alpine traverse begins at the high point to the north of Boanerges and ends at Pt. 2072. This deserves to be a classic skyline traverse of the area. It is easily accssible, the climbing is interesting, the rock is good, the views are superb, and there is exposure and interesting scrambling to boot. An evolution of this could be to link into a GT of Taiaha.

Ascend steep bush to Pt 1642. The first ascensionists went direct on the SE Ridge, the rock here is quite good, and provides a nice warm up. Other parties have traversed out to the north and then climbed steep snow to the snow arete at 1900m. Ascend the final point to the ridge, either by going straight up (beware cornices) or sidle around to the south where you can ascend a steep gully for 30m.

From here travel north along the skyline taking in all the high points. Multiple bivy spots are found along the way. The overall quality of the rock on this ridgeline is quite good, especially over the first third of the traverse. The rock deteriorates as you near Pt. 2072. 3 rappels were required off the various high points - these will depend on conditions and your confidence. Descent was into Paradise Creek via steep snow slopes east of Pt. 2072,. There is a hunters/game trail that sidles/parallels Paradise Gorge. This spits you into the Hopkins Valley just upstream of the Huxley river mouth. The first ascensionists soloed the whole route over two days and found ice up to WI3/rock climbing up to Grade 12.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3
Comments
UUID
 
5f0fcb2e-89cf-46ae-b272-1859312df67a