Warm Up Boulder 5

Type

Part of

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1The Crack, V2	V2	0m	2.01
P1 Hueco V2 Start on the left arête. Traverse right to gain the diagonal crack, then follow this to the top. Easy-ish, loose and scary but that’s what dreams are made of!
2	2Crack Variants, V2	V2	0m	0
P1 Hueco V2 It is possible to climb a couple of variants on The Crack wall. The right side of the left arête makes a good outing. Or you can climb the middle of the wall by stepping off the block in the corridor.
3	3Whip It Good, V6	V6	0m	1.02
P1 Hueco V6 Sit start, with feet under the small roof. Make a couple of hard pulls up the short wall, then exit left onto the slab. An obscure lower start on underclings bumps the grade to V8. Chose life!
4	4Kompressor Arête, V7	V7	0m	0
P1 Hueco V7 Similar build quality to your average Mercedes! Sit start on the block and clamp your way to the top of the arête.
5	5Pitbull Terrier, V9	V9	0m	1.02
P1 Hueco V9 Sit start in the middle of the slightly overhanging wall. Head left then up on small edges, finishing with a long crank up the short hanging slab. Hard.
6	6Jack Russell, V2	V2	0m	0
P1 Hueco V2 Start down the hole at the right end of the wall. Crank up and left to a mantle of sorts.
7	7Lippy, V1	V1	0m	1.02
P1 Hueco V1 Start on some comfortable slopers at the left end of the overlap, traverse right across the lip and exit as for Slaprobatics.
8	8Pumpy, V2	V2	0m	1.02
P1 Hueco V2 Start as for Lippy but traverse right all the way to Game On. Finish by rocking right onto the slab. You can sit start in the corner, which bumps the grade to V3. Or you can ‘campus’ the thing at around V7.
9	9Slaprobatics, V4	V4	0m	2.01
P1 Hueco V4 Sit start, with left hand on the blunt arête and right on an undercling. Pull up, slap left, right and then right again to gain the lip. Match then ‘beach a whale’, as they say. If you stack the pads or start with left hand too high, it lowers the grade.
10	10Game On, V5	V5	0m	1.02
P1 Hueco V5 A eliminate but a worthwhile outing. Start sitting, with hands in the large pocket. Take the gaston edge, then one of the edges on the wall just left of the arête. Now make a long move up to another gaston and exit direct.
11	11Rock On, V1	V1	0m	0
P1 Hueco V1 Start as for Game On but from the pocket roll up with your left hand to the sloping rail. Match then head up and right onto the slab.
12	12Roll On, V2	V2	0m	0
P1 Hueco V2 Yet another variation. Sit start to the right of Rock On. Climb the arête on its left side all the way to the top. It is possible to start much further right but the climbing is not as good as it could be.
13	13Easy Slab, VE	VE	0m	0
P1 Hueco VE Pick your line up the slab. Now try it with no hands, especially the far right side.

Images

Boulder 5 – Warm Up Boulder – The Crack, The Bronx

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe North, 2013

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UUID

045737a6-924b-4792-b636-d566a33864ff