Bronx Cave Boulder 1

Start on the large hueco. Traverse leftwards along the lip on slopers and edges. Exit above Fatal Discharge or, better still, carry on to the end for an extra point.

Start sitting on the block, with hands matched on the rail. Pull up and snatch the broken pocket with the right hand. Take the big pinch, slap the lip and mantle.

Start on the glued flake. Make a long move with your left hand out to the wide pinch. Move right to a sidepull, then again to the diagonal flatty. Exit straight up (easier) or as for Sport of Kings.

One of the great Cave problems! Start as for Speed King. From the wide pinch, gain a series of vertical slopers then bust left into the crack and exit tending left.

Start deep in the cave crossed up on a undercling (left hand) and shallow edge (right hand). Double take out to the glued keel. Match, then gain the diagonal rail without losing your feet. Exit up and left. Sit start is a project. FA Sharik Walker 03/05

Interesting name. Jump to the razor flake (a pad stack will help), match and head upwards! Most people use the crack.

Start a body-length back from the glued flake on some obvious underclings (the right hand one is a jug). Make a long move overhead to the flake, match this and exit up Speed King.

Start as for Pro Series but from the flake exit up Speed Freak.

Local lad hits the big time. A sit start (on a shallow undercling pocket and poor pinch) to Freak Show. One very hard move then steady as she goes. Easier if you stack pads under the starting holds.

JJG nails the Prolapse Project! As for Allison Wonderland, but finish up Pro Series. Long and draining.

Links Allison Wonderland into Freak Out. Tomo says this ‘V11 into V6’ link is V9 or 10. He makes it look like V6. Either way, it doesn’t add up.

Another variant starting on the flake. Climb the first half of Agent Orange then finish up Speed Freak.

Start on the Speed Freak flake. Staying below/left of the large crack line above the Speed Freak pinch at all times, head for the diagonal rail at the end of Fatal Discharge. From there, make a long move (via a sloping undercling intermediate) to a wide pinch. From a very bad right hand hold, slap for the razor flake on Calypso, match, hold the swing and exit up and left (no crack!).

The first problem established on the front of the Cave, Sport of Kings turns out to be an eliminate and as a result is hardly ever climbed. Start with left hand on the glued flake, right hand on a pinch. Pull up, heelhook the rail & make a long move up to the diagonal flatty. Snatch the wide pinch out left then head up over the bulge.

A fun eliminate on the front of the Cave. Start on the rail at the end of Fatal Discharge. Climb right into Speed King, using the sloping rails (but not the jug) on Speed Freak and a good (double) toe hook on the keel of Fatal Discharge. Good luck following that description!