Mt Castor | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2518m

Part of

This fine, rarely climbed peak just to the north of Pollux offers better climbing than its neighbour.

Lat/lon

-44.22113776,168.88340699, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BZ11 712 953

Accessed from

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Pickelhaube Glacier Route, III,2	III,2	0m	0
Follow the Bluffs route on Pollux and traverse below Pollux to cross the col between Pollux and Helena into the Pickelhaube Glacier. From there the South West Face is straightforward. The first ascent was made via Chasm Pass. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 2
	East Ridge, III,2+	III,2+	0m	0
From the top of the moraine wall between Lake Lucidus and the North Wilkin, pick a line through the bluffs to gain a shelf that leads out to the lower East Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 2+
	South East Face, III,2+	III,2+	0m	0
Gain the glacier above Lake Lucidus via the Bluffs route on Pollux. The route follows a prominent rock rib which merges into the snow of the face proper. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 2+
	Pickelhaube Glacier from the Drake River, III,2	III,2	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Mt Cook) 2 From the Drake River sidle up the valley draining the Pickelhaube Glacier, to above bushline. Cut left up a scrub and tussock rib to slabs under Pegasus and follow benches to the Pickelhaube Glacier. Choose a route to suit up the last steeper bit.

Comments

Attribution

Allen Uren & John Cocks

UUID

4917c4e2-ae1a-4752-b7dd-fa6c5dea1e67