Mt Sealy

From the Metelille Glacier climb steep snow to the col between the low and high peaks, or traverse to the col from the low peak. This is Barrow Col, marked incorrectly on topo maps. Follow rotten rock to the summit.

A steep couloir leading almost directly to the summit. A ‘couloir and chimney’ somewhere on the face were climbed by O Bainbridge, Jack Clarke and W Tennant in March 1903.

Exposed rock scrambling with a steep step or two. Sometimes reached from Sladden Saddle, but usually gained via the couloirs on the north or west faces.

This is the standard ascent and descent route on Mt Sealy but is suffering heavily from loss of permanent snow and ice. After midsummer the route comprises loose rock and steep, hard snow slopes, increasing the grade. Winter, spring and early summer are the best times.
Ascend to Sladden Saddle, circle round the back of the peak, head up the 150m moderately angled face, and then either (i) follow the top of the rotten north-west ridge over a short step, or (ii) traverse right across a shelf to gain easier-angled snow and rock slopes (the preferred route if conditions allow).

The rock face ‘to the right of the couloir’. The exact location of this route is uncertain.