South Face

(3 routes)

The South Face of Mt Sealy, at the head of the Dobson Valley, is steep and broken.

Face (Alpine)
-43.770323470000, 170.047872260000
H36 724 110
BY15 624 494
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Ice Gangsters 4 900m
The major gully on the left side of the face tops out on the Sladden Glacier just below the final summit pyramid. The majority of the route is 50–60º with three short 80º sections plus the final mixed step to the glacier. A direct finish up the summit headwall via a corner system would be possible, instead of going left, if the corner is iced up. More detail at
Steve Fortune, Jamie Vinton-Boot, July 2012
Prime Time 5 17 800m
wire representing trad
This route follows the rock buttress up the centre of the south face, passes right of the snow field on the face and finishes 50m east of the summit. Initial steep pitches on sound rock, are followed by an easier section at mid level moving left before the buttress steepens again and provides constant resistance.
Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, February 1993
Hello Darkness 4+ 16 650m
The route ascends the obvious snow/ice gully on the right side of the south face, heading directly to the low point between the summit and the east peak. About 650m high, the route complements the earlier completed route Prime Time, further left on the face.
Bill McLeod, November 1994