Skip to main content

South Face

Type
Part of

The South Face of Mt Sealy, at the head of the Dobson Valley, is steep and broken.

Aspect
South
Lat/lon
-43.77032347,170.04787226, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BY15 624 494
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Ice Gangsters, 4 4 900m
0

The major gully on the left side of the face tops out on the Sladden Glacier
just below the final summit pyramid. The majority of the route is 50–60º
with three short 80º sections plus the final mixed step to the glacier. A
direct finish up the summit headwall via a corner system would be possible,
instead of going left, if the corner is iced up. More detail at
http://jamievintonboot.wordpress.com/2012/07/30/ice-gangsters-south-face-of-mt-sealy/


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • 900m

Generally classic grade 4 climbing.


 Prime Time, 17,5 17,5 800m
1.02

This route follows the rock buttress up the centre of the south face, passes
right of the snow field on the face and finishes 50m east of the summit.
Initial steep pitches on sound rock, are followed by an easier section at mid
level moving left before the buttress steepens again and provides constant
resistance.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5
  • 800m
  • Trad

 Hello Darkness, 16,4+ 16,4+ 650m
0

The route ascends the obvious snow/ice gully on the right side of the south
face, heading directly to the low point between the summit and the east peak.
About 650m high, the route complements the earlier completed route Prime
Time, further left on the face.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
  • 650m

Comments
UUID
 
6351bbb2-c0e5-4af5-bc73-a013287d7985