Mt Elie de Beaumont

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
5.43	5.43Anna Glacier Route, II,2+	II,2+	0m	1.02
‘Elie’ is the throne that elegantly resides over the cluster of peaks at the head of the Tasman. Whether on skis or on foot, it is an entertaining outing, which culminates in a ballroom-sized summit plateau. Head up the Anna Glacier (which is frequently complicated by crevasses) usually keeping close under Mt Walter. Then ascend slopes onto the col between Mt Walter and Mt Elie de Beaumont (the Elie-Walter col). Follow a snow ridge, which is often interspersed with firm, blue ice sections from the col up to the summit. Alternatively, from the lower glacier, continue weaving directly up through the glacier if crevasses allow. From here the summit can be reached from either ridgeline. If the lower Anna is cut off, ascend to Divers Col, traverse over Mt Walter and descend to the Elie-Walter col – a much more serious proposition (see Routes 5.37 and 5.42). P1 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 2+
5.44	5.44South East Ridge, III,3	III,3	0m	0
From Lendenfeld Saddle climb the sharp and undulating ridge onto the upper Anna Plateau and on to the summit. This would be an interesting way to climb Elie when there’s plenty of snow to cover the rotten rock. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3
4 or MR	4 or MRMaximilian Ridge, 4+	4+	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ From the Burton Glacier gain the ridge via a couloir south of Roderick Peak. Then follow the pinnacled ridge (the lower part of the ridge may be avoided by using the névé of the Burton Glacier) up over a prominent step, along a level section, and up 190m of mixed ground to the Anna Plateau under the summit of Mt Elie de Beaumont.
	Burton Spur, 4+	4+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ From the upper névé of the Burton Glacier (reached via the lower part of the Maximilian Ridge, ascend left onto the crest of the rib. Mixed climbing leads onto a snow arête and snow slopes leading to the summit.
WS	WSWhymper Spur, 4	4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 From the Whymper Glacier, ascend the prominent spur leading onto the upper part of the Maximilian Range. The spur becomes steeper and more difficult towards the top, and the rock is not particularly good. The first ascent was done in deep soft snow.
	Ski Touring			0
P1 Experienced mountaineers may attempt ascents of other peaks in the region including Elie de Beaumont (3109m). From the huts, traverse underneath the west shoulder of Hochstetter Dome and turn north into the upper Anna Glacier. There are often large crevasses on the Anna Glacier, and at times it may be impassable. It is best to scope out the glacier conditions from the summit of Hochstetter Dome the day before, to get some idea of the conditions. Beware also of possible ice avalanches from Mt Walter. Most skiers leave their skis on the south west shoulder of Elie, but under ideal conditions it is possible to ski off the summit. Advanced ski terrain. 6-10 hours return.