Grade
III,3,2+
Length
0m
0
Quality
First ascent
Hans Muller, Otto Van Allman, 1973
Located on
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- Alpine (Technical) 3
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+
Climb the vague rib on the North East Face that begins in the true right of the upper Hoophorn basin and runs up the centre of the face.
Comments
UUID
3480e854-146f-46a1-b7e0-e185eda1644e
A route that can only be described as a botanical re-enactment of the Peloponnesian War. Had a go at this in early April, if there was a coherent route on here, it has fallen off or been utterly buried. We encountered very speargrassy tramping, except rotated 90 degrees. Almost entirely unprotectable. Any exposed rock, that isn't utterly covered in a phalanx of hostile plants is very compact and rather blank. A decent chunk of our hand and footholds were spear-blades. We had three pieces of gear in total in 6 rope length pitches up, which we reversed completely due a combination of no plausible abseil line being found and exsanguination concerns. I spent the next two weeks pulling snapped spear-tips out of half of my body.
Could be some cool slab lines on this face if you have a drill and nothing better to do with your time though.