The approach to these slabs is across the permanent snowfields underlying the north ridge of Mt Speight, then onto the permanent snowfield under the southeast flank of Mt Harper. Both of the routes shown commence near the toe of a rock slab comprising “solid” greywacke, and follow weaknesses in the face.
The face is about 70 metres at highest point and 15–20 metres across. Sixty metre ropes are good, a set of wires with doubles of mids and a handful of cams should see you right.
There is potential for a couple more routes on the face.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left-hand Route, 17 | 17 | 50m | ||||
Climbs on the face to the right of the arete. Good gear can be found on the face through cracks and breaks. 50 metres of interesting climbing on good rock. |
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Right-hand Route, 17 | 17 | 55m | ||||
The right-hand route starts near the centre of the face; head up and slightly right following gear to about the middle of the face. Straight up from here. Good gear but a bit spaced at times. |