Natural pro requiredA serious route that picks its way through the highest, steepest section of
the wall. Those who are tempted by its airy position and variety of moves
will also require some ability on vertical vegetation.
- P1
- 16
- 25m
- Trad
Start by a free-standing blade of rock at the right end of the lower overhangs. Climb the crack which snakes through these overhangs at their weakest point, and begin traversing left at the first opportunity. Traverse about 15m, almost horizontally, to a stance just below a small overhang to the left of the grey slab. This is Gnomes Cavern.
- P2
- 16
- 25m
- Trad
Continue the traverse, which now rises slightly to the base of a heavily vegetated groove. Climb this for a few metres, then hand traverse left and up past tussock bushes to Hobbits Hole. The first two pitches can be combined with a 50m rope at grade 16.
- P3
- 18
- 25m
- Trad
Traverse rightwards across a clean wall to a groove. Climb this groove and at the top move right into a bottomless chimney. Struggle up this to a grassy stance.
- P4
- 14
- 25m
- Trad
Straight up the heavily vegetated crack above.