This is a small crag located 100m north of the far right/north end of Whakapapa crag. It’s about a 20min walk from Whakapapa ski field base, and the wall faces ENE so sees good morning sun. It’s a great crag for teaching/learning climbing. If you need more easy climbs you can also use the Far Right Wall (about 100m away).
There are access bolts at the top of the crag which you can use to access the anchors for all the climbs so you can set them up quickly for top-roping with a group. All climbs are bolted for people learning to lead, and all anchors all have lower off rings. Climbs are described from left to right.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
SB | SBSpaceballs, 17 | 17 | 0m | 5 | |||
Named after an 80s space film. The thoughtful crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Its a little run out after that (but on easy ground) and veer slightly right to join the last 2 bolts of Moonraker. Finish on MR anchor.
|
|||||||
MR | MRMoonraker, 17 | 17 | 6 | ||||
Have you seen the movie? Classic James Bond. And just like Bond, this climb is classy with an edge. Start by stepping right onto the slopey ledge, arrange your quickdraws, then launch up the delicate face. Finish up the tricky flaring thin double cracks and onwards to the summit and glory. 6 bolts, DRB (double ring bolt) anchor.
|
|||||||
A | AApollo 13, 13 | 13 | 8m | 4 | |||
Another good movie, though more realistic than the last. Start at the edge of the big cave (as for Sputnik), though there is a harder direct start. Veer left onto slab then up through some thoughtful moves, then finish with a mantle onto the big ledge. 4 bolts, DRB anchor.
|
|||||||
S | SSputnik, 14 | 14 | 4 | ||||
Not a movie, but a fine piece of Russian titanium. Start at the edge of the big cave and straight up into aretes, small corners, some cool moves, and bonus free hand jams! 4 bolts, DRB anchor.
|
|||||||
SW | SWSuperblood Wolfmoon, 11 | 11 | 5 | ||||
Bonus points if you can name the band who sang this song (extra bonus points if you can sing the song while climbing). Start up solid red rock, move right then up steeper finish. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.
|
|||||||
M | MMarama, 16 | 16 | 5 | ||||
Moon in Te Reo Maori. Up the vertical section of the wall, with some good holds and moves. A grade easier if you bail left on the top half. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.
|
|||||||
L | LLuna, 17 | 17 | 4 | ||||
Moon in Latin. Start by the left facing corner, blast straight up, keep your foo foo valve on while you clip the fourth bolt, then finish in the groove. 3 bolts, DRB anchor.
|
|||||||
DS | DSDeath Star, 17 | 17 | 3 | ||||
“That’s no moon” (Kenobi, O.W.). But it is a dyno past the first bolt, and you’ll need to overcome the tractor beam of earth to do it. Wild. Still not over after that, keep it together as you move delicately up to clip the second and third bolts. 3 bolts, DRB anchor (shares a bolt with Luna anchor).
|
|||||||
AS | ASArmstrong, 11 | 11 | 5 | ||||
“That’s one small step for Halfmoon crag, one giant leap for learn-to-lead crags in the CNI”. Great training for mantles, bridging, delicate footwork, and strong arms. 5 bolts, DRB anchor. FA: Taj and Kea Nukada.
|