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Right Side Main Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Lovers Leap

An orange wall packed with steep columns.

Aspect
South East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Seawitch, 22 22 34m 8
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 22m
  • 8
  • Trad

The deep, steep corner directly above the lowest point of the Sandy clay ‘V” shaped band is accessed by a fixed chain (route length is from top of this chain). Great bolt protected climbing up the deep corner with the crux at the top before moving R to ledge, then stepping L for a 6m natural pro section to the belay. Take some medium-large wires and cams #1.5 – 2.5.

  • P2
  • 16
  • 12m
  • Trad

Bridge the steep corner to DBB.
0 0Orange Peel, 27 27 27m 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 27
  • 27m
  • 6
  • Trad

Fairly sustained with one difficult crux that keeps spitting you off. Step L after ascending Seawitch's fixed chain, follow bolts with a few medium wire placements to finish on Sw ledge.
2 2Demilitarised Zone, 27 27 25m 10
3
  • P1
  • 27
  • 25m
  • 10
  • Trad

Fixed chain between SW and BoS leads to a line of 9 bolts. Sustained climbing to a hidden hold at mid-height allows you to cross the border onto the upper wall where the nature of the rock changes. Although the struggle eases somewhat, only stamina will take you to the chains.

3 3Balls of String, 25 25 35m 13
3
  • P1
  • 25
  • 35m
  • 13
  • Trad

Follow the closely spaced bolts on the beautiful mottled orange wall L of WtF. Stepping out R to the WtF ledge gives you a quality sport route, but for full experience, step L off the ledge, clip one last bolt and swing around the corner to the natural pro crack (medium CDs) then a wild heel hook onto the semi detached pillar at the top. This finish is a recommended mind blowing 2nd pitch at about grade 19 to any route that finishes on the WtF ledge. Alternatively, bypass the ledge (the rest here has been eliminated) and continue straight up the line in one long push.

4 4Welcome to Failure, 24 24 30m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 5
  • Trad

It has all the hallmarks of a signature Lovers Leap classic. The open groove is incredibly sustained, technical and tenuous with the crux at the top, on natural pro. Take a few smallish offset wires and cams to #1.
5 5Pink Cadillac, 22 22 22m 8
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 22m
  • 8
  • Trad

The rock lower down is not quite of the quality of the surrounding routes, but the large amount of traffic has cleaned up this climb. Good pro, (bolts then a series of medium offset wire placements) and continuously great climbing culminate in 'go for it' crux moves to an awkwardly positioned jug, again near the top of course, when your strength has been sapped. Choices of finishes- L onto WtF ledge is best, then a 2nd pitch up BoS to finish for a classic combo.
 JCs Route, 23 23 2
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 2
  • Trad

Continue above the Pink Cadillac ledge climbing a nice corner crack on natural pro (take mostly med cams). Clip two bolts before swinging left to a belay hidden on a sloping ledge.
6 6It Always Ends in Tears, 22 22 26m 3
3
  • P1
  • 22
  • 26m
  • 3
  • Trad

-and that is just getting to the base of the climb! 3 bolts protect you through the chossy cauliflower heads and a traverse L (best back clean as you go), then all natural pro to the top in the mesmeric serpentine crack which appears hand size, but seldom offers more than fingerlocks. Take a comprehensive rack of wires & cams to #2.5, doubling up around #0.5.
7 7Trojan Horse, 22 22 26m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 22
  • 26m
  • 5
  • Trad

Start as for GG, moving L after 3rd bolt and step around L into tricky corner after reachy bolt clip. Cruxy moves up the thin corner to ledge and final corner on natural pro. Finish at IAEiT DBB. Double ropes are handy. Take large selection of wires & cams to #2.5
8 8Greek Gift, 21 21 24m 9
1.02
  • P1
  • 21
  • 24m
  • 9
  • Trad

Cave Dona dona ferentes. Hard climb. Steep bouldery start gives you a good pump-out and lots of confidence for the real start of the climb. From the ledge, it gets straight into hard bridging for 7 or 8m before crossing R onto another ledge. Simon says that “if you are 19-20 climber and accidently stumble onto this climb then you are f***ed! But if you are a confident 21 climber then you will love this climb. You have a good chance of falling and breaking your legs on the ledge while trying to place small wires”

 Ovation, 27 27 25m 9
2.01
  • P1
  • 27
  • 25m
  • 9
  • Trad

Mike's addition to the brace of Main Cliff classics is a fitting memorial to Bill Bradshaw. The line of 8-9 bolts follows a shallow groove between GG and PU
9 9 Parallel Universe, 25 25 30m 10
3
  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 10
  • Trad

Searing stemming and finger-locks up the L facing groove until you can wedge yourself in a niche for a no-hands rest. Move out and up a thin steep crack until it lays back a bit and into a hanging corner. Follow this to a ledge, then up the short steep wall above to the belay hidden over the top.
10 10Bird Dropping, 23 23 20m 8
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 8

Sidle under the VW goove and up the steep face to the left on amazing rock. Further bolts have been added since the pillar fell out of the wall. Finish at the new VW belay or continue up LaWR.

11 11VW-Long and Winding Road, 23 23 40m 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 20m
  • 6
  • Trad

Sadly the 8m high pillar self ejected in Dec 2005, moving the route up a few grades from 20 to 23. Start up Unrequited’s fixed chain, move L into the bolted V corner (crux), now known as VW, and up to a bolted belay.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Clip the bolt and move left around a corner and up nice cracks to an awkward pedestal. Surmount the pedestal, up the corner and through the L side of the W roof. Don't worry about the roof; if you can't hand-jam the gear is good for dogging. Take a big rack! This pitch can be accessed by abseil from a ring bolt anchor on the ridgeline above on the access track. A great adventure.
12 12Wicked Corner, 24 24 17m 3
2.01
  • P1
  • 21
  • 17m
  • 1
  • Trad

This tough little corner demands more than just bridging. Climb either Bird Dropping or VW (both 23) to a good ledge. Clip the bolt out left and slip around into the corner until you can step R to a large ledge at the base of the deep corner. (Setting up belay again here could prevent long falls due to rope stretch if you were to belay lower down). Up the attractive corner to the DBB under the RH side of the W roof. Good pro with wires and # CD’s 0-3.

  • P2
  • 24
  • 3

The pumpy continuation out R through the roof and up the headwall to finish at chains a couple of metres right of LaWR anchor. Bolted and worked by Steve Carr, it finally fell to Jonathon Clearwater in 2006
13 13Unrequited, 25 25 41m 5
3
  • P1
  • 25
  • 25m
  • 5
  • Trad

Originally climbed in 2001 as one monster pitch at grade 24, it has become harder and more sustained now that the bear-hug pillar has fallen off. Now it is split into 2 pitches, 1st of which is a gob-smacking endurance counter-pressure test-piece. Starts immediately above the LH group of 3 fixed chains, levitate up the shallow groove past 5B, then natural pro to the DBB.

  • P2
  • 22
  • 16m
  • 2
  • Trad

Climb the R facing corner 1B to the peapod with magic knee-bars, and then finish up the off-width crack. This pitch is an essential part of every climber’s education. Take CD’s #1-3.5
14 14Via Magma, 23 23 40m 8
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 25m
  • 8

Start at the central fixed chain. Superb sustained climbing, in a steep open groove. Move L at the top to finish this section on the top of a truncated pillar then climb easily a few metres up to the DBB.

  • P2
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

A hard move gets you into a hand-crack in the left-facing corner (separated from Unrequited's corner by a white lichenous wall). Take a few wires and CD's #1.5-3.0.

15 15Killer Wail, 23 23 26m 7
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 26m
  • 7
  • Trad

The curving V corner is stunning all the way, with a killer finish up the arête to the rap chains under the roof. Take a good selection of small-medium wires, plus maybe 1 or 2 CD’s to #1.5.
16 16Date with Destiny, 22 22 31m
2.01
  • P1
  • 22
  • 31m
  • Trad

This has to be up there with the best all natural pro routes you will ever do (discounting the choss band). Weave your way through the 3 cracks, placing multitudes of small-medium wires, if you can hang around long enough. Also take CD’s to #2.5. Fantastic crux right at the top just as it should be.
17 17Moped, 18 18 33m
0
  • P1
  • 18
  • 33m
  • Trad

An extended section of poor rock detracts from the otherwise reasonable route. Trend up and R after the 1st chain as you approach on the cliff. Climb up and R again to bridge up the RH of twin 12m corners. Carry on direct or better follow a crack L around the arête 5m up into the corner next door. From the big ledge, finish up the short corner (crux) and step L to DwD’s belay. Al carried on to the summit ridge on the 1st ascent. Take small- medium wires and CD’s #0-3.5.

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UUID
 
735390c5-d0b0-42b4-b58c-0b1c023d2508