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Mt Wakeman

Type

Altitude

2271m

Part of

TBA

Lat/lon

-42.99774228,171.38010979, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BV19 680 382

Accessed from

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality	Alert	Operations
	From Marmaduke Dixon Glacier, 1+	1+	0m		0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+ Climb to the col (sometimes corniced to the east) on the spur between the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier and a feeder névé of the White Glacier. Cross this steep névé to the summit. The rocky North Ridge to the true left of the col may also be traversed to the peak, however a traverse on the full ridge from the col adjacent the 2108m point tends to become a full day outing.
E1468531 N5238662	E1468531 N5238662Northeast Ridge, IV,3+,14,3	IV,3+,14,3	15m		0
Full route length: 1600m Total ascent height: 620m From Barker Hut commence heading towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier route, however stay to the left-hand side of the large rock buttress south of the glacier. Ascend the boulder strewn scree slope to its highest point at a gut running in from the left, scramble on slabs, up and initially leftwards, before climbing the centre of the face using good interconnecting slabs to join the northeast ridge at 2020m with a view towards the tarns northwest of the ridge. Continue to follow the ridge. The section of ridge below the 2189m point is extremely narrow (only space for feet and hands) with considerable exposure on both sides. Several rotten pinnacles are met on this section of ridge, most can be climbed over, however the final pinnacle is not climbable. The solution is to drop down onto the north face of the ridge, sidling underneath the pinnacle via a network of crumbly catwalks/ledges and reascending 15m vertically back to the ridge; this is the most exposed part of the route. Continue scrambling to the 2189m point, following the ridge to join the standard Marmaduke Dixon Glacier route at a steep gully (usually ice) descending onto the ice-field north of the summit. Cross the ice-field, climbing onto the steep, loose northeast spur that ascends to the summit rocks. P1 14 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 3+ Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 15m The crux of this this ridge climb is met at a set of ridge pinnacles before the final ascent onto the 2189m point. The final pinnacle is not climbable. The solution is to drop down onto the north face of the ridge, sidling underneath the pinnacle via a network of crumbly catwalks/ledges and reascending 15m vertically back to the ridge; this is also the most exposed part of the route.
	From White Glacier, 3	3	0m		0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 Approached directly from the névé of the White Glacier by the wide, steep feeder snowfield below the summit. In early summer this route is avalanche swept, and by late summer a bergschrund and rock cliff bar access midway. Certainly not a winter route!
	North East Slabs: Hug a Ginga, 15	15	200m		0
This route is near Barker Hut. Located at the north-eastern end (lowest point) of a outlier summit (2189m) on the North East Ridge. The orange-coloured, triangle-shaped buttress can be seen directly out the west-facing window of Barker Hut. Walk for about 30 minutes from the hut up towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. The climb starts once past some steep, smooth rock with vertical cracks (good options also) and then a broken, rust-coloured gully. Climb up slabs with short steep sections for two pitches (grade 15 with good protection), then easier climbing up to grade 14 through fantastic orange rock for another three pitches. Either scramble up from there to the outlier summit, or angle easily down a scree ledge system back into the basin opposite the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. P1 15 200m Trad
	North East Slabs: Gingernuts, 15	15	200m		0
P1 15 200m Trad To the (climber’s) right of Hug-a-Ginga, starts up the vague crack/slab system slanting out right. Gear generally plentiful, climbing very mellow. – Easy climbing but on sometimes broken rock (14). – From the base of the distinctive orange face with multiple vertical cracks, take the rightmost crack (or another, at probably a higher grade) then continue up balancey slabs on generally good rock to the base of the steep headwall with obvious big cracks (15/16 depending on crack taken at orange face). – Move to the climber’s right around the headwall and climb the slabs to the top of the bulge. – From here scramble to the top of the outlier peak (14). If abseiling the route, note rap points carefully on ascent as good ones are hard to find (smooth domes of doom).

Comments

UUID

a7f394d7-0fe1-44a4-9992-1ea16f47ef50