Grade
21
Length
30m
Natural pro requiredQuality
First ascent
John Allen, Dave Fearnley, 1980.
Located on
Topo ref
7
- P1
- 20
- 12m
- Trad
The marginal pro low down has held a fall from the crux just below the visible fixed piton, but don’t count on it. in 2023 the piton was replaced with a bolt and hanger. The grade has been inflated to allow for the ground-fall potential. Soloed by Luke.
- P2
- 21
- 18m
- Trad
This great pitch has dealt out some big wingers, especially when the RP’s have been left behind. Unable to find an abseil anchor on the first ascent, Dave and John down-climbed loose blocks, then the entire pitch. Traverse R under the roof, then up R facing corner (crux) to bridge R and finish up Pearly Gates. Originally with two pitons which have since rotted out, the final moves are now quite serious.
Comments
UUID
0c75b61d-7b18-4aee-9b87-cfbae658d29d
The ironmongery at the first pitch belay is pretty rubbish. We traversed further right to belay at the rings at the top of Solitary Vice. This also makes the runners on the second pitch work much better. The top of P2 where the peg used to be is not too bad because there is a bolt (no hanger) on the R wall. Couldn't find any belay anchors at the top – possibly didn't go far enough but the rock looked awful further up.
In reply to The ironmongery at the first by Richard Thomson
The old chains have now been removed and replaced with a backed up ring.