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The marginal pro low down has held a fall from the crux just below the visible fixed piton, but don’t count on it. The grade has been inflated to allow for the ground-fall potential. Soloed by Luke.
This great pitch has dealt out some big wingers, especially when the RP’s have been left behind. Unable to find an abseil anchor on the first ascent, Dave and John down-climbed loose blocks, then the entire pitch. Traverse R under the roof, then up R facing corner (crux) to bridge R and finish up Pearly Gates. Originally with two pitons which have since rotted out, the final moves are now quite serious.
Day of the Vijaks
John Allen, Dave Fearnley, 1980.