Day of the Vijaks

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
7
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12012mYes
 

The marginal pro low down has held a fall from the crux just below the visible fixed piton, but don’t count on it. The grade has been inflated to allow for the ground-fall potential. Soloed by Luke.

22118mYes
 

This great pitch has dealt out some big wingers, especially when the RP’s have been left behind. Unable to find an abseil anchor on the first ascent, Dave and John down-climbed loose blocks, then the entire pitch. Traverse R under the roof, then up R facing corner (crux) to bridge R and finish up Pearly Gates. Originally with two pitons which have since rotted out, the final moves are now quite serious.

Grade: 
20 ,21
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
30m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
John Allen, Dave Fearnley, 1980.
UUID: 
0c75b61d-7b18-4aee-9b87-cfbae658d29d

Comments

The ironmongery at the first pitch belay is pretty rubbish. We traversed further right to belay at the rings at the top of Solitary Vice. This also makes the runners on the second pitch work much better. The top of P2 where the peg used to be is not too bad because there is a bolt (no hanger) on the R wall. Couldn't find any belay anchors at the top – possibly didn't go far enough but the rock looked awful further up.