Shotwell Slabs | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Shotwell Slabs or "Shotty Slabs"provide consistent climbing on clean diorite.
Climbing Notes::
1 Take 2 x 60m ropes and 14 quickdraws.
2 American Idol is the only route that requires trad gear the rest are fully bolted.
3 Best combo. 1st pictch of Bad Judgement, traverse easy ledge to Eureka, climb Eureka, and finish on Tickety Boo.
4 Best and easiest way to the top of the slab: 1st pitch of American Idol, then cross rightwards to Morris Dancing and climb the last 2 pitches.

Walktime

15 min

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

-44.813201,168.035545, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CB09 075 258

Approach

Six kilometres down the Hollyford Valley from Homer Hut. Park at a double concrete bridge, numbered 2325 & 2326. The slabs are on the true right: walk up the steam bed to reach them.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
TGS	TGSTwelve Good Summers, 19	19	120m	9	1.02
Enjoyable slab climbing. You can move left past the first anchor through vegetation to the higher ledge if you want to avoid adding another short pitch. But using the lower anchor when abseiling makes for a cleaner rope pull. There’s a right variant at pitch two to avoid a common wet streak. P1 16 45m 9 P2 19 35m 9 P3 17 40m 9
	No Name, 18	18		30	0
P1 18 30 All Bolted
AI	AIAmerican Idol, 16	16	142m	9	0
A light trad rack needed, with occasional bolts for pro. Bolted belays. P1 15 32m 9 Trad P2 16 50m 9 Trad P3 16 60m 9 Trad
GD	GDGold Dust, 22	22	30m	11	0
P1 22 30m 11 Up groove on left to high clip, then up slab to first belay station of Morris Dancing.
MD	MDMorris Dancing (in the Moonlight), 19	19	180m	14	0
Three long pitches to the top of the wall. Start in the vague corner and then move left onto the smooth slab. P1 19 60m 14 P2 16 60m 8 P3 17 60m 9
	Perfect, 22	22	40m	9	0
P1 22 40m 9
BJ	BJBad Judgement, 20	20	100m	11	0
Start on the line of bolts left of the marked route initials. P1 20 50m 11 P2 20 50m 7
	Sweet Sixteen, 16	16	27m	6	0
P1 16 27m 6 start at bolt on bulge then finish on smooth slab
	A walk in the Park, 14	14	40m	7	0
P1 14 40m 7 up to shared belay ledge with Sweet Sixteen, 27m rap
E	EEureka, 20	20	220m	11	0
All the way to the top. P1 20 35m 11 P2 20 50m 11 P3 17 50m 11 P4 18 50m 11 P5 15 35m 11
TB	TBTickety Boo, 20	20	122m	9	1.02
P1 20 122m 9 Starts at the third pitch of Eureka, then branches out right for a further three pitches.

Images

Comments

Attribution

From topo provided by Nick Cradock.

UUID

11e9ce38-8f3a-4887-98b3-8ed6fad8eb98