Natural pro requiredThe direct start is left of the DB Eh buttress. If you're not keen to thrash and dangle on the direct, the original start is a good alternative although it misses two of the best pitches on the route. Climb the access route to the left of Altered States until level with the snow ledge at the bottom of pitch 3. There is a rock slab pitch (M4?) to traversed, thin scratchy dry tooling but well protected with wires.
Most pitches will feel easier with more, rather than less ice.
Despite there being bolts, take a full rock rack. Double cams from purple .5 camalot - 3 camalot, singles 00 - .4 plus one number 4. , 10 quick draws extenders are useful, and 3 short ice screws would be advisable. single set of nuts - #8 including some small ones. Mostly small wires with the occasional medium sized wire.
Descent: Can top out to summit of Double cone on easier ground, or abseil route on bolt anchors. Can descend the route with one 60m rope. All raps 30m or less. The Pilsner pitch rap (pitch 3) is a rope stretcher so keep knots in for that one!. All raps are on double bolt belays.
- P1
- Mixed M6
- 20m
- Trad
A steep icy corner all on natural pro. Pull over the lip onto a small shelf on the right, then up a few more icy metres to a bolt belay on a blocky stance. Stop here to avoid rope drag that would occur if you try to combine pitches 1 and 2, and so you can hear your climbing partner. If pitch 1 has a large hanging dagger in the middle you may need to climb up and clean off the dagger which will make the grade feel a bit harder!
- P2
- Mixed M4
- 20m
- Trad
Vertical corner and small bulge that is turned on the left, rock pro and ice screws if fat. Gain the snowy terrace and bolt belay at base of next left facing corner/crack on right wall.
- P3
- Water Ice WI4
- Mixed M5
- 35m
- 6
- Trad
Climb tricky corner/crack to gain turf and hopefully ice, good rock pro. Once the turf is reached there are bolts on the right wall, which makes it possible/sane to climb this pitch in thin, dry or warm conditions. The ice chandelier gets seriously sun baked and rotten, but utilising the bolts it has been climbed in these conditions with full sun on the ice. The first ascentionists feel it is reasonably safe, however it would be scary as hell if it did collapse.
- P4
- Mixed M3
- 20m
- Trad
Easy turf corner up the slab, trending slightly left. Can link with pitch 5 for 55m pitch, or stop at intermediate belay below chimney.
- P5
- Mixed M5
- 20m
- Trad
Chimney / corner to hanging ice, if dry/thin finish up left wall onto arete, then up and right to bolt anchor. if really fat conditions the V-groove with icicle might be a better option. Be careful where your rope runs over the sharp edge when rapping off this anchor.
