An area where the climbs are not as they appear to be...
Hidden and set back, just 20m from road this crag is so close you could throw a rock at a climber from your car. It's located just east of The Watchtower or 5 kms past the pull out to the Upper Bluffs. Parking is near the river immediately after the cuttings in the road. Look for a white wall in the trees to the south. The track is up a steep bank on the left hand side of the cutting. Schizoid is a classic test-piece.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| Treehugger, 25 | 25 | 6 |
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The wall left of SP past 4 bolts then climb the tree past roof and step back onto headwall and climb left arete past 2 more bolts to double bolt anchor |
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| Schizoid, 26 | 26 | 20m | 2 |
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Hidden away in the forest is this gem. The steep main corner feature which goes to the top of the crag, great gear with a bolt and a single ring when gear is inadequate (ring is useful to re-thread when cleaning route) Double bolt anchor. Double ups 1,2 & 3 camalots are handy. Has been used for aid climbing practice and goes neatly at A2. |
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| KB's Crack, 18 | 18 | 15m | 1 |
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On the right hand end of the crag starting on top of a jumbled blocks. Climb
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| Beeched, 25 | 25 | 20m | 5 |
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Pretty much a linkup but with some sweet tree and rock climbing if you're into that type of thing. Climb the first four bolts of Treehugger but instead of climbing up the tree and over the lip continue up the corner stemming between the tree and the rock until you finally have to commit back to the rock. The corner takes good finger sized cams and wires. Continue up Schizoid to bolted anchor. Single rack up to #3 should suffice. Classic of the genre.
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| Spin (Silent partner is nervous), 18 | 18 | 16m | 6 |
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Right hand side of Split persona Wall. A seam or shallow crack which has been cleaned. This should be about the last possible route on this wall.
A steepish start which may require you to use your foot on the small tree for balance between the first and second bolts. Good hand holds. At the forth bolt follow the ledge to the left where you will find more good holds to achieve the top. Double ringed anchors behind the tree. First ascent done with silent partner. |
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| Rough Diamond, 15 | 15 | 10m | |
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Second wall (wall 21 b) past Split persona walls heading west, there is a vague trail, approximately 70 mtrs.
A short pitch of trad for those starting out. I used B.D. 3, .4, 1, .75, and a #10 nut. I used the tree at the top to abseil afterwards. |
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| peach slices and cheesey tuna cream corn, 22 | 22 | 17m | 1 |
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Follow vague ground trail on from split personal wall then cut back and up on to a big ledge. Obvious corner at far end. FFA on gear (rap and clean) bolt added to protect crux (crucial placements tricky to onsite and check, especially with shorter arms)
Thin corner work into big holds and endless gear placements. traverse left at top to anchors shared with climb to the left. Super fun! |
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| Nose Candy, 17 | 17 | 8m | 1 |
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Climb 'Spin' to its anchor, then climb onto the ledge above (protected by one bolt). Belay off the small tree. Layback your way over the bulge and jam your way to a DBA. Superb quality, it's a pity it isn't longer. |
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| The Grievance Tree, 32 | 32 | 28m | 7 |
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The Grievance Tree is an open project located on the wall 60 metres to the right down past the main 'Split Persona Wall'. Climb on gear through the obvious crack to reach the first bolt at the base of a steep, extremely thin crack. Clip the bolt, and commit to a hard and dynamic boulder problem to the left on small holds to reach the next bolt and a rest. Follow the line of bolts to the top of the crag following large spaced holds through the steeper ground. The route may need a clean if attempting as it would not have been climbed for a few years. A direct start is possible, but would be a grade more than likely harder than 35 if it is possible. I couldn't give the route a specific grade. However, the crux move through the spaced holds is definitely a V9-11 graded problem in itself, if not harder. When I eventually arrive back from overseas I plan to straighten the line and bolt the lower of the section of the route to create a more pure line. If trad is more your thing, there is an alternate route continuing straight up the extremely thin crack for 2 - 3 metres, taking 00-0.3 cams until a fist jam rest. Also an extremely tough line.
The Grievance Tree, open project. Located on the wall 60 metres to the right and down past the main 'Split Persona Wall'. Climb on gear through cracks to reach the first bolt at the base of a steep, extremely thin crack. Clip the bolt, and commit to a hard and dynamic boulder problem on small holds. Finish up the route on spaced big holds through the overhang. Couldn't give it a grade. The boulder problem in the middle of the line is potentially V7+ |
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