This wall runs the entire length of the north face of Warwick Castle and has several climbs on its lower end with only one at the top. Most are shorter routes ending on large mossy ledges.
At the very bottom end of Warwick Castle approximately 10m to the right of a small but prominent arête the track passes a wide square shaped groove.
Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.
It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.
To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1Typhoon, 19 | 19 | 10m |  |
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The prominent arête. |
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| 2 | 2Poseidon, 12 | 12 | 10m | |
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Climb the crack right of Typhoon. |
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| 3 | 3Geras, 16 | 16 | 10m | |
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Climb the right-hand crack over the block and exit left. |
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| 4 | 4Nemesis, 12 | 12 | 10m | |
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The right facing corner in the wide square shaped groove. |
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| 5 | 5Flashirt, 16 | 16 | 10m | |
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Left facing corner to the right of Nemesis. |
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| England Layback, 16 | 16 | 7m | |
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Has a layback at the top |
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| Meko, 17 | 17 | 7m | |
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Climb overhang to offwidth crack |
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| 6 | 6Triceratops Alec, 14 | 14 | 30m | |
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Near the upper end of Warwick Castle. Directly opposite This One’ s a Twenty Two Too Chris. Start at the bottom of a sharp buttress and move up over the large steps to the top. |
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