On the northern side of Hongis Valley, regarded as a remarkably good area
The Prow. Although the routes are not hard to protect, a good belay anchor at the top may be difficult to find.
Descent is by climbing down to the top of The Prow, and then traversing north and down.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Weetbix, 15 | 15 | 10m | |||||
Starts 10m left of Suitcase. Climb broken blocks to ledge then straight up face with two clean cracks. Mossy exit. Starts 10m left of Suitcase. Climb broken blocks to ledge then straight up face with two clean cracks. Mossy exit. |
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Suitcase, 15 | 15 | 10m | |||||
Starts 10m to 12m left of Deja Vu. Climb the face below obvious cleft in rock. Squeeze through cleft to gain access to wall above. Climb corner. Protection in upper corner is abysmal, like the climb. Not on the topo. |
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6 | 6Deja Vu, 18 | 18 | 15m | ||||
Start as for Almost But Not Quite but traverse left on the ledge and climb the corner exiting direct over the overhang. A direct start (14) has also been done by Kevin Conaglen, but beware of loose rock. Since the original ascents the stepping stone which provided access to the groove on the second part of the climb has been removed due to overzealous gardening. Climb has now revegetated. |
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5 | 5Almost But Not Quite, 18 | 18 | 15m | ||||
Climb the short flaky wall direct to the bulge. Climb the bulge by the prominent crack arriving on a ledge below an in-situ peg. Climb the groove above to a second fixed peg. Exit by mantleshelf on right lip. |
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4 | 4Fungus the Bogeyman, 16 | 16 | 15m | ||||
Starts at the crack to the left of West Coast Joe. Follow the rusty pitons directly up the arête to the top via the overhang. Fungus the Bogeyman is the title of a book by Raymond Briggs which is highly recommended (do the climb, read the book, listen to the opera). |
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3 | 3West Coast Joe, 14 | 14 | 15m | ||||
Starts 8m to 10m from Shoelace. Moves up into a large corner then step right under the overhang and up the arête. A pleasant climb. |
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2 | 2Shoelace, 16 | 16 | 6m | ||||
The wide crack between the nose block and the rest of the cliff. |
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1 | 1Black Sunday, 16 | 16 | 6m | ||||
The obvious crack which splits the nose block. |
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Exporter, 16 | 16 | 12m | |||||
Starts 5m right of Wild Thing. Move around a bulge and straight up broken face. Crux is at mid-height. |
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Wild Thing, 17 | 17 | 12m | |||||
15m right of The Prow. Starts at small overhang. Layback short crack, then climb overhand on positive holds to massive ledge. Follow shallow groove past a peg to the top. |