Climbs to the Left of the Spring

50m left of the Prow. An S-shaped hand to fist crack in the middle of a steep wall with a small roof at third height. From the ledge , fist jams lead through the roof (crux). The crack above widens and the curves as the face leans back. Tape up your arm, this bites!

The second crack to the right of The Prow. Some jamming, some Offwidth. A poor line broken by large ledges.

300m left of the Pinnacle and wall worth the walk. Hidden in the grove of a mahoe trees but impossible to miss. (However I have yet to find it..Cliff) A tight handcrack running up the middle of the Prow. – a narrow protruding arete. There is a small cabbage tree at the top of the climb. The rock is soft in the middle of the climb but it is easy jamming country. The crux is the top vertical section which is on reasonably good rock.

50m left of "The Pinnacle" is an obvious right facing corner broken at half height by a large ledge on the right hand side. Thorn bush at base. A nice clean corner that just begs to be climbed. Layback and bridge to the ledge on good rock, then jam to the top.

50m left of a stream is a hedge row. 10m or so further left is an obvious leaning pinnacle. Climbed by the slab on the back. There is an abseil bolt in place but I suggest you back it up as it’s been there along time.

Immediately left of " Dai Thrytchyn" and just around the corner, before the ditch , is a pretty slab on the side of a boulder. Climb up the middle of the slab past one bolt, step left at the second bolt. A pleasant route for beginners. Either climb down the back of the boulder to a ledge and then jump into the leafy gully , or wait at the top to be rescued by a fireman.

A short steep right-facing corner with a thorn bush at the base. Climb the hand crack. This route finishes on a small grassy knoll. Descent by jumping off the ledge on the other side into a gully full of dead leaves.

A right facing corner. Jam and bridge the corner. The crack widens to offwidth in the top section. Take care with the loose flake which forms one wall of the crack at mid height.

The chimney 1m right of the “Ice Cream Jimmie”

50m left of fence/hedgerow. A short climb with a long description. The description is the crux. A crack of about knee and shoulder width in a corner. Climb this for some 3m to a large grassy ledge leading off to the right. A wider chimney leads up from here behind a stout pinnacle detached from the main face. Climb this to a spike, then left along a sharp level rib a metre or so and awkwardly up the crack/chimney to the top of the four boulder in a row (??). Descend down the same crack but at the back. .

Some 25m left and before the fence is an inset box like groove with an overhang top. The orangey prominent left facing corner. Strenuous face moves lead to fingerlocks then to earthly jams. The crux is the overhanging offwidth at the top. The bolts were added sometime later by someone believing they were preparing a new route. Twit!

A large rib with a hole through it near the top. Tight hands and bridging near the top , all on good rock.

A hard start, then easy but deep jamming to the top.

Behind a small clump of cabbage trees is a crack system. Jam, bridge and wheeze to the ledge. Jamming the curving crack system at the top is the crux. Nice moves.

Climb the twin cracks. Jam the right hand of the two cracks till it’s possible to bridge across to the left. The crux is the overhanging tight hand section in the middle. The chimney at the top is almost OK.

On the left side of the gut is a deep right-facing corner. Layback and stem off fingerlocks to the roof. Jam around an up the exit crack (crux) to the top. The rock , like the climbing , improves the higher one gets. Unlike most Piarere climbs this finish is not offwidth. A classy climb.

Up a little way on the right-hand side of the gut. Back and knee fingerlock/jam to the roof, which is the crux. The interest however is provided by the hand traverse out right on good fingerlocks (there is a #5 or #6 Rock placement halfway). At the end of the traverse right on the top of the crag is a 2 ½ fried placement “If dogs run free, why not we”- Bob Dylan.

Fingerlock to the roof, jam above. Easy bridging at the top avoids the chimney. The crux is pulling over the roof.

A steep straight, hand crack. Tight hands, then the obligatory offwidth /chimney section near the top. Previously attempted by Gillman and Martin in 1980. This climb still sees occasional failures, however the crux is low down.

An unmistakable line. The Huge massive crack is not as easy or as straightforward as it looks. Don’t be put off by the top section as it is pleasant back and footing. A good climb , worth doing.

Immediately left of The Spring is the fine boulder problem. Climbs the roof crack from near the left hand side of the fence.