Surrealist Wall

There are two ribs on the far left end of “Surrealist Wall”. Climb the longer right rib
and slab to the top.

A left slanting groove, just left of the third arete on the left end of “Surrealist Wall”.
Follow the arete using RP's for pro. Continue up the slab to the top.

The arete on the right of” Shades of Night Descending”. Interesting rock
formations, but do not break them! 3 bolts, DBC belay. Either abseil off, traverse
off to the right, or continue up the gentle arete to the very top.

The rounded groove just right of “Persistence of Memory”, finishing on the same
rib.

An obvious dark arete, right of “Persistence of Memory”. Nice climbing if sometimes fragile. Named after an Athrax Album. Soloed on first ascent, may be worth a clean and a couple of bolts.

About 20 metres right of “Persistence of Memory”, “Surrealist Wall” juts out, with a
large ledge on top. Climb the left hand side of this buttress, up a line of large
knobs and ledges. 3 bolts, and 2 thread runners. SBC and fixed peg belay at the
back of the ledge. Either scramble off to the left or abseil off.

The arete, right of “Conquest of Irrational”, starting from a higher level. 1 bolt, but
use your nuts (#9 Rocks) to get to it. Belay at back of ledge. More difficult than it
looks when you are still intoxicated!

The corner 2 metres right of “Birth of Liquid Desires”. Avoid the dirty finish by
traversing left, clip the bolt, and up the arete. Excellent protection in the crack.
Belay as for previous climbs.

Start up the face 2 metres right of “Inventions of The Monsters”. Continue up the
obvious arete, above, to the top. 6 bolts, fourth has a fixed hanger. Belay anchor
is the rock bollard, further back from the cliff, with a bolt to keep the rope from
slipping off. The DBC is for top roping, not for belaying from the top.

Climb the slabby face, 2 metres right of “Interpretations Of Dreams”, finishing on
the ledge. 4 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers, run out between the second and
third. DBC belay. Either grovel off the top, or abseil off.
Adam McMillan /

From the top of Out by Yourself, climb the short face to the left past two bolts.
Belay as for “Interpretations of Dreams”.

About 5 metres right of the previous climb is a small rounded face. climb this with
2 bolts for protection. DBC belay. Either scramble off to the right, or climb a
second pitch.

The short unprotected face above Out by Yourself. Soloed on first ascent. SBC belay.

Start up the corner 15 metres right of “Out by Yourself”. Continue up the thin
seam, to the large crack. Climb the under-side of the crack, until you can pull up
on to the small ledge. finish on top of the slab. A full rack is required from #1 RP
to #3.5 Friend. Double bolt belay.

The face further right of “Wheelbarrow of Flesh”, past a large ledge. 1 double bolts,
3 single bolts which do not take hangers. DBC belay.

The rib, 4 metres, right of “Fear And Trembling”, at the left hand base to the
descent gully. 6 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers. DBC belay.

The bolted overhanging face to the right of “The Eternal Enigma”, on the left side of
the descent gully. Start from the right. Continue past 6 bolts with hangers (plus
some extra old bolts), on good sinkers. DBC belay.

The descent gully, with steps, divides the cliff in two. The climbs are to the right of the gully.
Garden Of Earthly Delights (13) 6m
The corner on the right hand side of the descent gully. Step out right, and up, just
below the top. 2 bolts, double bolt belay.

The overhanging arete starting at the base of the descent gully. Start on the left of
the arete, finishing on the right. 3 bolts with hangers, double bolt belay.

The face right of “Galacidalacidesoxyribonucleicacid”, just past the skeleton of a
cow hanging out of the rock. Much easier if the wall to the right is bridged. Well
protected with 5 bolts. Double bolt belay.

Right of “Moo With a View” is a clean arete, just before a crack. Climb the arete
using holds on either side. From the top platform, mount the top of “Do Androids
Dream of Electric Sheep” to belay. 4 bolts without hangers. SBC belay. Originally
bolted by Fraser McRobie in 1990.

The crack between “Illumined Pleasures” and “Do Androids Dream of Electric
Sheep”. Start up the ramp, then continue up the crack, past the bolts, to the top.
A good climb for placing protection from small wires to #4 Friend. Belay as for “Do
Androids Dream of Electric Sheep”.

The left of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up the
easy ramp, then climb the groove, finishing on the left. 5 bolts, first does not take
a hanger, the rest have fixed hangers. DBC belay. The name is taken from the
book that the film “Blade Runner” was based on.

The right of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up
the easy ramp, as for “Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep”, then move right after
the first bolt and climb the right-hand groove. 5 bolts, but the first does not take a
hanger. DBC belay.

Groove and “S” shaped crack, in the middle of a buttress, about half way from the
descent gully to the end of the crag. Mixed pro, from #1 RP to #3 Friend. Finish
on the large ledge. SBC and fixed peg belay and abseil, as well as a DBC on the
ledge above the climb.

Start up the easy angle slab to the vertical crack, which veers left from mid-height.
Continue to the top past a fixed peg. You have the choice of lowering off the bolt
and chain, or grovelling over the top to the belay ledge. 1 bolt, does not take a
hanger, 1 peg, DBC belay.

The third to last of the main diagonal cracks, on the right of “Surrealist Wall”.
Follow the vertical crack until it veers left. Continue straight up to join the next
crack at the top. Take good selection of wires. 1 bolt, DBC belay.

The crack 3 metres right of “Morphological Echo”, before the chimney. Follow the
crack all the way, with the crux at the bulge. Small and medium sized wires give
good protection. 1 bolt, DBC belay.

The buttress on the right of “Philosophy of Conquest”. Climb through the groove
in the bulge, then continue up, finishing on the right past a crack. 6 bolts, 2 have
hangers. Take a #.5 Friend or #7 Rock for the crack. Either lower off the SBC, or scramble round the back of “Philosophy of Conquest” to belay. A consumer route,
and Shane’s attempt at the longest route name in the world!