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Grade
II,4
Length
190m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Ruari Macfarlane and Jaz Morris, June 2013.

Fun wee turf route best when conditions are thin. Joins Midnight Cowboy about
1/3-1/2 height. Pitches 1-2 can be avoided by scrambling to tussock ledge at
the base of pitch 3 (see topo). Finish as for MC, or scramble down MC and rap
to ledge (2x 60m ropes) and descend access route. Gear is generally medium
wires, hexes and cams to size 1 if not too icy. Knifeblade pitons are handy.

  1. Bridging up the gully right of original start to Midnight Cowboy. Average
    gear. 40m
  2. Solo or easy pitch up tussock ramp tending left to reach ledge at base of
    obvious corner system. 60m
  3. Up obvious corner to cave. Pull up out of roof (height is an advantage
    here) to a belay. Good gear. 50m
  4. Climb above belay to strenuous undercling traverse right and into an
    awesome turf groove. Climb turf and exit at the top of the natural line to
    easy tussock ramp on Midnight Cowboy. Good gear. 40m

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • 190m
  • Trad

Comments
Attribution
J Morris 7/2013
UUID
 
61d02fe6-27e4-48e5-b569-982e534a465b