North West Couloir

Reach the Hector Glacier either via McCoy Stream and Toledo Col (easier) or via Billy McCoy Stream (much more difficult). From the head of the glacier two prominent gullies cut the north face. Take the gully on the right, ascending snow but climbing through a small rocky notch if snow cover is low, then follow loose rock to the summit ridge. Follow the broad, loose upper West Ridge over the low peak to the summit, turning a small block on the east side.