Upper Walls | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Altitude

2100m

Part of

Cloudy Pk

n/a

Aspect

South

Approach

To reach these routes, scramble up scree until you can traverse across the big shelf above the Hourglass
Wall. Be aware that snow may be present on the summit and on the descent to the col between Cloudy
and Ferrar Peaks.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
GP	GPThe Great Prow, 14,3+	14,3+	350m	2.01
This striking buttress is clearly seen from far down in the Havelock Valley. The first ascent climbed a steep gully north of the Hourglass Wall to reach the Prow, but since then it has been accessed from the shelf to the right (as described). Start just to the right of the prow of the buttress on steep cracks. The pitch descriptions are somewhat generalised and should not be taken too literally. There are doubtless several variants. From the top of the route scramble easily to the summit of Cloudy Peak in about 30 minutes. Just before the summit, a ridge (South East Ridge) joins from the right which leads to the col between Cloudy and Ferrar Peaks and a long scree slope back to the Cloudy Stream valley. There is often a patch of snow near the top which may have to be traversed. P1 14 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ 350m Trad Climb steep cracks with a small bulge about 15m up (crux). P2 11 Trad Follow the line of the buttress on broken rock with deviations where necessary. P3 11 Trad As above. P4 13 Trad Move out right to avoid a smooth section, and then up short steep crack to rejoin the ridge. P5 11 Trad Skirt the prominent overhang on the left. P6 11 Trad Continue up, generally following the line of the Prow. P7 11 Trad As above P8 14 Trad From the crest move left into a steep, broken gully with grey rock, and follow the left crack. P9 12 Trad Continue up the same line on easier rock to the shoulder of the Prow.
Ps	PsProwess, 19,3	19,3	350m	1.02
P1 19 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 350m Trad The huge, smooth red wall.
MC	MCMcC’s Crack, 15,3	15,3	350m	0
P1 15 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 350m Trad Takes the prominent chimney, although it’s often necessary to climb slabs on either side to avoid loose rock. About 11 pitches, with the climbing easier and the rock looser towards the top.
QD	QDThe Quick and the Dead, 4	4	200m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 200m Mixed climbing, thin ice, marginal pro. Five pitches.
ND	NDNeedle Direct, 16,3	16,3	200m	2.01
P1 16 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 200m Trad The Needle is a striking feature of the bluffs below the South West Ridge, just right of the Great Prow. Scramble up scree gullies for about 50m to the start. Mostly climb the crack just left of the arête. Five ptiches. Abseil off the top into a rotten gully, then scramble to the main ridge.
	Windwhistle Arête, 21	21	60m	0
P1 21 60m Trad ‘Obvious sharp arête left of substantial face heading to the South West Ridge, two fixed pegs.’

Comments

Attribution

Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint,
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club

UUID

4581ffc7-5466-4d2f-9f1c-7aec18be2dcc