OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.
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The Great Prow
OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Grade
14,3+
Length
350m
0
Natural pro requiredQuality
First ascent
John Entwisle, Chris Moore, 1979
Located on
Topo ref
GP
This striking buttress is clearly seen from far down in the Havelock Valley.
The first ascent climbed a steep gully north of the Hourglass Wall to reach
the Prow, but since then it has been accessed from the shelf to the right (as
described). Start just to the right of the prow of the buttress on steep
cracks. The pitch descriptions are somewhat generalised and should not be
taken too literally. There are doubtless several variants.
From the top of the route scramble easily to the summit of Cloudy Peak in
about 30 minutes. Just before the summit, a ridge (South East Ridge) joins
from the right which leads to the col between Cloudy and Ferrar Peaks and a
long scree slope back to the Cloudy Stream valley. There is often a patch of
snow near the top which may have to be traversed.
- P1
- 14
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
- 350m
- Trad
Climb steep cracks with a small bulge about 15m up (crux).
- P2
- 11
- Trad
Follow the line of the buttress on broken rock with deviations where necessary.
- P3
- 11
- Trad
As above.
- P4
- 13
- Trad
Move out right to avoid a smooth section, and then up short steep crack to rejoin the ridge.
- P5
- 11
- Trad
Skirt the prominent overhang on the left.
- P6
- 11
- Trad
Continue up, generally following the line of the Prow.
- P7
- 11
- Trad
As above
- P8
- 14
- Trad
From the crest move left into a steep, broken gully with grey rock, and follow the left crack.
- P9
- 12
- Trad
Continue up the same line on easier rock to the shoulder of the Prow.
Comments
UUID
e552b386-54f0-44be-8e81-0a6a8f3faf6e