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Main Cliff / Lower Tier

Type

This is the steep wall in the middle of the Cirque, rising from the floor of the Cirque, directly ahead as one walks up the McPherson Cirque path from the Homer Tunnel.

Image
Aspect
South
Approach

Via the McPherson Cirque path to the foot of the cliff.
Descent is either abseil back down the route, or down the access descent route at the left hand end of the cliff.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Classic Hits and Memories, III,WI4 III,WI4 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Water Ice WI4

This is a steep interesting gully climb that at one point narrows into a chimney. Three to four enjoyable pitches.


 Blue, IV,WI4 IV,WI4 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI4

Blue is an icicle that forms near the top of the cirque wall. The colour of it is quite striking, resembling the deep blue seen in seracs. Moderate climbing leads to a crux icicle.


 Gabites Rogan, III,WI3 III,WI3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Water Ice WI3

The route lie immediately left of the large cleft. Takes the left-hand of the two ice runnels. Two pitches of steep climbing lead to a level bench then a further three pitches to the snowfield. This was the first winter route put up on the lower cirque.


 Gomer, III,3 III,3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

The route lies immediately left of the large cleft. The frozen waterfall right of the Gabites-Rogan route, joining it at half height.


 The Celtic Connection, III,7 III,7 0m
0

Classic technical winter climbing with thin ice and adequate protection.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 7
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 Rabbit Run, III,WI3 III,WI3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Water Ice WI3

The large ramp and corner immediately right of Gomer.


 Ether, IV,5 IV,5 220m
0

Takes the groove line from the top of the pedestal between Rabbit Run and
Stirling Moss. Climbed with good neve and thin ice. A committing line with
protection and belays hard to find.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 220m
  • Trad

 Stirling Moss, IV,WI6 IV,WI6 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI6

The gnarly central line which is a prominent waterfall during summer. The second pitch is what gave everybody such a hard time. The flow forms over a small roof and the icicle doesn’t often join up. The resulting pull on frozen moss has spat at least one climber off. After the crux there are a few pitches up a 70 degree path of usually good water ice. Stirling Moss is named after Dave Vass’ Triumph car which could almost find its own way to the Darrans from Dunedin. The route was ground down in July 1992 by two separate parties. Dave Fearnley, Matt Evrard, and Brian Alder climbed the crux lower pitches the day after Dave Vass and Allan Uren climbed the upper pitches by traversing in from the right.


 Thrill Frenzy Ramp start to Stirling Moss, IV,WI5 IV,WI5 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI5

If the lower pitches of Stirling Moss are absent it is possible to traverse in from the right on a steeply rising ramp which starts near a large overhang. Be prepared for some tricky mixed climbing protected with pitons.


 1964 HQ Holden, III,WI3 III,WI3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Water Ice WI3

Right of the start to Thrill Frenzy is an alcove. 1964 HQ Holden goes up the middle of this alcove. Watch out for monsters lurking in deep pools.


Comments
UUID
 
71effe2b-b13f-4c67-bc62-3158715328b0