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Upper Cirque Left Wall

Type

This is the East facing cliff on the left hand side of the Upper Cirque, with many prominent icy lines. Climbing on this cliff is very good, but it does catch the sun at times through the day.
Be wary of snow conditions in the Upper Cirque.

Image
Aspect
East
Approach

Via the McPherson Cirque path, to below the cliffs, then either up the access/descent route on the left hand side of the lower tier, or climb one of the routes on the lower tier.
Best descent is down Talbot's Ladder.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1The Road, III,4 III,4 220m
0

An aesthetic. laser line of ice, directly up the left hand side of the cliff.
Climbed as 5 pitches, pitons are useful for belays.
The top pitch gets the sun early in the afternoon.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 220m
  • Trad

2 2No Country For Old Men, III,4 III,4 220m
0

This is the deep central gully line, and forms an excellent and interesting
ice climb.
Not recorded when first climbed, the route was resdiscovered by S. Fortune
and R. Measures in July 2012.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 220m
  • Trad

DW DWDark Waters, III,6 III,6 220m
0

The groove/corner up buttress to right of No Country For Old Men. 2 pitches
up thinly ices grooves, then 2 steep mixed pitches up corner going right of
roof.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 6
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 220m

3 3The Crossing, III,4 III,4 220m
0

Climbs the larger ice flow on the right hand side of the cliff.
Climb the ice flow for 60m. Continue up the ice flow, over the overlap, and
up snow slopes to belay under an ice pillar, 60m. Climb the pillar thropugh
overhangs, then up mixed ground to a belay on the left, 60m. Follow the easy
gully to snowfields below the ridge.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • 220m
  • Trad

Comments
Attribution
Photodiagram - Steve Fortune
UUID
 
9a7f9729-8deb-4a78-821c-3af296829005