Main Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

650m

Part of

The very obvious large cliff, home to the cleanest, longest, and steepest lines, including the mega-classic White Wizard.
Descent:
The Main Cliff has recently been equipped with modern DBAs enabling easy descent with a single 60 m rope. There are DBAs at the top of the good climbing (25-30 m mark) on lovely belay ledges on Son of Hangman and nearby on White Wizard (on the same ledge system). An additional DBA at the very top of the cliff (if you are inclined to an alpine-esque adventure through the deteriorating rock) means you can now top out on any route and abseil easily to the White Wizard DBA (watch for choss in the gully). An older style DBA (chains) is located at about the 20 m mark, somewhat hidden and tucked on a steep wall, on Staccato or Silver Lining (or possibly Spring Fever?). A Spike lower-off is also available at 35m on Son of Hangman which enables descending before the final earthquake-loosened upper band.
The 'easy descent gully' referenced in older guidebooks and beta is now a serious gorse and scrub bash and no longer a good descent route. In addition, the gully and its vegetated walls are home to subalpine vegetation that is extremely rare on Banks Peninsula and must be treated with care.

Aspect

North

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Craig's Wall, 22	22	12m		0
P1 22 12m Trad A bold lead with one bolt. Starts up the R of two cracks, then across to the L crack.
	Straight and Narrow, 14	14	15m		0
P1 14 15m Trad A jam crack on the vegetated section of the cliff. Start on R side of a column to reach a ledge, then up the crack.
	Dead End, 15	15	15m		0
P1 15 15m Trad The crack to the R of S.&N..
G	GGarlic, 15	15	10m		0
P1 15 10m Trad A fist crack which is steep at the bottom and vegetated at the top. Jam up to flake and move L to finish beside the flake and over vegetation.
UE	UEUnlimited Edition, 22	22	14m	1	1.02
P1 22 14m 1 Trad Up intermittent cracks L of Easy Chimney with hard moves below the bolt runner.
	Easy Chimney, 10	10			0
P1 10 Trad The deep chimney, that can be used as a descent route.
MA	MAMaggie, 19	19	15m	1	0
P1 19 15m 1 Trad Up the hand crack on L of the buttress until it runs out, then to bolt runner and up. Craig Hamilton '83
IM	IMIron Man Direct Finish, 22	22	14m	1	0
P1 22 14m 1 Trad Climb the Iron Man crack to a fixed piton, then move L and up to join the bolt on Maggie. Craig Hamilton '83
	Iron Man, 20	20	15m		1.02
P1 20 15m Trad Climb the steep thin crack on the R of the buttress until it runs out, then move R (crux) to join another crack.
SU	SUSet Up, 18	18	15m		1.02
P1 18 15m Trad The L of three steep grooves, overhanging at the top. Enjoyable, sustained climbing.
	La Folie, 21	21	15m	1	0
P1 21 15m 1 Trad Up the arete with finger crack R of I.M. and through the small roof, then easier to the top. Bolt and fixed piton.
	Spring of Discontent, 21	21			0
P1 21 Trad Short arete R of L.F.. No runners on the arete, but cracks either side can be used.
	Scratchy Crack, 14	14	18m		0
P1 14 18m Trad The central, heavily vegetated groove. One of the first routes here.
CC	CCCrime of the Century, 17	17	35m		0
P1 17 35m Trad The R groove. The first part of the climb, which is poorly protected, is the crux. After about 20m step R and follow the weakness, tending R. Lindsay Main '78
P	PProspero, 22	22	35m	1	1.02
P1 22 35m 1 Trad The crack between CC & SH. Bolt at top where crack peters out
SH	SHSon of Hangman, 17	17	35m		2.01
P1 17 35m Trad A classic route. The striking jam crack with a sizable roof at about 10m. Straight up the crack (crux) and through the roof on good holds. When the rock deteriorates, take the line of least resistance. Doubles of #2 and #3 strongly recommended, and a #4 and a #5 would make the otherwise run out and wide (but easy) upper section more pleasant. DBA at the top - step right to the obvious belay ledge after about 25m (could even top rope - 60 m rope needed), or carry on up easy vegetated cracks to a natural spike belay at about 35m.
	The Grey Ghost, 21	21	35m		1.02
P1 21 35m Trad Stats up twin cracks Rh of SoH, stepping R at 1st roof then L at 2nd to easier runout finish
TM	TMThorn Mother, 26	26	35m	4	2.01
Thin twin cracks left of WW. Up Lh crack until runs out at 3m, layback Rh crack to horizontal break. Around 1st roof on the L to a bolt, traverse R under 2nd roof, (BR), then up to skyline arete past 2 more (BR) to a ledge. P1 26 35m 4 Trad
WW	WWWhite Wizard, 22	22	35m		3
P1 22 35m Trad One of the best lines on the Peninsula - the corner right on the nose of the cliff. Sustained and technical climbing. Bridging and small holds in the corner (crux), with pleasant jamming through and above the overhang. Take small gear (wires and micro-cams) for the lower section and doubles in the hand-size cam range for the upper cracks. DBAs at the top - step left for an anchor also servicing Son of Hangman and routes in between, or use the right hand anchor for a lovely direct lower-off (could even top rope). 60 m rope needed.
	Thin White Duke, 23	23	35m		2.01
P1 23 35m Trad Up the wall and through the large roof on the nose. Start on the R and move up L to the obvious good hold. Follow the groove to a sensational move centrally through the roof.
Ju	JuJubilee, 21	21	35m		1.02
P1 21 35m Trad The L of two steep crack systems that lead to a ledge at about 10m. Climb the flaring jam crack (crux), moving R after about 5m (a tussock inhibits progress - cleaning would enable the rests to be eliminated). From the ledge climb the crack until necessary to move R into Cripple Crack.
CC	CCCripple Crack, 19	19	35m		1.02
P1 19 35m Trad The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing. The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing.
	Staccato, 20	20	33m		0
P1 20 33m Trad A route up thin cracks. Difficult start. Technical climbing leads to a loose section, which is followed by a tricky exit. Finish in the vegetated gully.
	Silver Lining, 19	19	30m		1.02
P1 19 30m Trad Another steep crack system. A committing start on the L wall to reach the crack, followed by technical climbing. The wide section is easy but poorly protected.
SF	SFSpring Fever, 19	19	30m		1.02
P1 19 30m Trad A groove with a thin crack and roof at about 8m. Hard chimneying to start, and a hard move through the roof from the R. Straightforward finish with another roof. Marty Beare '79
	Fear of Frying, 18	18			0
P1 18 Trad The groove R of Spring Fever, with pedastel at 3m. Direct to the top.
	Pop Goes The Weasel, 20	20			1.02
P1 20 Trad Climb the next groove to the R, round the roof at 10m on good jams.
	Floozie In The Jaccuzi, 20	20			0
P1 20 Trad The twin thin cracks between PGTW and BITB, unfortunately joining BITB at the loose blocks.
	Bride in the Bath, 16	16	18m		0
P1 16 18m Trad Just what you've always wanted. A route up steep, vegetated cracks and grooves with loose blocks.
	Fillet of Calf, 17	17			0
P1 17 Trad The arete R of BITB, with the crack that peters out at 8m. Continue up the arete, finishing up the overhanging crack in the skyline prow.
	Aegrotat, 10	10	0m		0
P1 10 Trad A steep slab on the left side of the Main Cliff/Castle Gully. Unprotected.

Images

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe South, 2014

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