North Face

North Face Grade 4, 1400m A fantastic setting, a bit of spice, and a distinctly Himalayan feel. Objective hazard due to icecliffs and the aspect of the face was mimimised on the first ascent by climbing the lower part in the evening and then finishing the route the next day after a bivvy. From the Whymper Glacier tend right across a slabby rock face to a gully. Climb this to a shoulder then left back to the central snowfield and straight up a gully to the headwall (crux). Head left again under the headwall before going straight up when the terrain allows, to finish in the col between the two summits of the Dome. Descent to the Tasman Glacier is straightforward.