South West Ridge

This is one of the classic climbs of the Southern Alps. The ridge is gained from the Bonar glacier, normally by its western flank at any convenient point below the rock band. About 150m below the summit, the ridge runs out into a steep open couloir, in which steep ice or even steep rock is often encountered, which nowadays is 80 degrees, before the ice cap and summit ridge are reached. Above the crux step there are about two 55–60 degree exposed pitches of potentially delicate snow and ice climbing to where the ridge joins the North West Ridge. This route is exposed to very cold wind so it's important to carry more clothes than you would normally expect.