Taratahi

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Climbs the large continuous black slab to the left of the main face of Copper Point. Can approach by boat or abseil. Well protected techy climbing on a fantastic sweep of rock. Approach from bottom: Route starts from a large square cut platform approx 5m above sea, with a short overhanging crack below. Approach from the left, step off boat up to a small ledge and single ring. Traverse 8m right and up to the platform, with 1 protection bolt. Approach from top: Take the descent track to the summit of the point. Head to rock slabs down and to the right of top of Sirens et al. 5m above lowest slab a track heads to right through scrub to top of climb. Anchors accessible to the right, a belay off tree may be needed to access. Rap the line, at least double 50m ropes required. Start at a large, square cut platform approx 5m above sea with a single ring Rack: Single set cams up to #2 camalot, small set offset nuts (red), 14 draws.
Reference: 
2
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1240mNo
 

P1: 21, 44m. Start from large square cut platform. Climb up crack on right, pull into corner further right past 3 bolts (crux). Climb splitter crack, then through the roof. Up slab past a bolt to belay on the left.

P2: 18, 12m. Short pitch up slab.

P3: 23, 40m, Traverse left to arete and up arete. Some tricky friction climbing, up groove, left to arete and belay on ledge

P4: 24, 36m. Easiest to get to first bolt from left. Climb face to funky groove. Above groove step right to bolt, up and back left to belay. Superb.

P5: 21, 25m. Layback steep arete on left side of roof, then up slab. Clip last bolt on ledge and step right to belay.

P6: 23, 42m. A tricky step right of belay to crack. Up to 3rd bolt then left onto face. Some cool moves up knobs, right side of small roof and more slab angling right.

P7 22, 30m. Cool climbing up flakes. Climb to top of rock!

From belay, step left and up into scrub where a track takes you to open slabs. Follow up and right to knob on top of point where the normal descent track starts.

Grade: 
24
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Llewellyn Murdoch Steven Fortune Dec 2020
Route Image: 
UUID: 
f932c7f7-7d05-4ff4-bdf1-2fdf70b752b2

Comments

Belay at top of P2 currently missing a hanger/ring and nut. if someone's heading in would be great to add. Get in touch, i can supply one. Steve